Andrew Barker's Southern Traverse

Granite Rock Formations, Pegasus

2011-11-17T14:18:00.001-08:00

Sculptured top of Magog

Breasts near Magog

Camp for 2 nights near Magog

Plant growing on Gog. How do they survive?

Grumpy Sea Slug?

Who are you looking at?

Dinosaur Fossil?

Photos of Stewart Island Trip

2011-11-17T00:03:00.001-08:00

Gog and Magog

Gog

Cooks Arm from Magog

Self on Gog

Smiths Lookout from Bald Cone

Self on Bald Cone

Harsh Wind Swept Enviroment

Bald Cone to the Right

Gog and Magog

Trig D near old Tin Mine

Stone Dam at top of Tramline Track

View North East along Tin Range

Doughboy from the Tin Range

Looking South from Mt Allen

Looking North from Mt Allen

North along Mason Bay

Little Hellfire Beach

Waituna Beach and Ruggedy Mountains

West Ruggedy Beach

Rugged Islands

Kiwi West of Long Harry

Long Harry

Smokey Beach

Tall Trees East of Lucky Beach

Looking South from Mt Anglem

A not so good picture of a Deer at Christmas Village Hut

Murray Beach

Maps of Stewart Island Traverse

2011-11-16T23:22:00.001-08:00

Overview of Route

Detailed Route, Port Pegasus

Detailed Route, Tin Range

Detailed Route, North West Circuit

2011-11-16T22:59:00.001-08:00

StewartIsland (March/April 2011)

Monday 14March (1^st Week)

The 1^stweek of the trip this year was spent doing a volunteer project at Port Pegasus.This got me into the southern part of Stewart Island without having to walkthere. I had done a stint as a “vollie” last year in the Murchison Mountains,and enjoyed it that much that I was very happy to apply for this trip.

We departedBluff on the DOC boat “Southern Winds” and arrived at North Pegasus in pouringrain and blustery wind. Brown foaming water was just raging out of Pegasus Creekand over Belltopper Falls. The whole bay must have been filled with fresh waterthat day.

We spent 2days working on the old tin mine tramline track, digging out mud and cuttingback the undergrowth. Thursday was our rest day where we were taken on a tourof the old historic sites, then 2 more days working and suddenly the trip wasall but over. We were looked after really well, great accommodation, great foodand great company. Thanks DOC for providing these opportunities. I left a foodstash hanging in a tree on the tramline track.

A 4pm onSaturday afternoon, the guys dropped me off halfway up Cooks Arm, together witha large bag of sausages to help me on my way. So now I’m back on my own again.I walked for 2 hours before setting up camp about 1 ½ km NE of Magog. In themain, the scrub here is only knee deep or less so the going is relatively easy.

Sunday 20March (Day 1)

Departedcamp site at 10:00, and walked west to the head of the swampy area north ofMagog. From a rocky outcrop here, I could get views down into Easy Harbour.Across the gulley from this point I saw a large? White animal making its waythrough the scrub. I assume it must have been a cat but could it have been analbino whitetail? From here I backtracked before progressing up through thescrub to a spot where I set up camp near the base of Magog. Along the way, Icaught a glimpse of a whitetail deer sneaking through the scrub. And to mysurprise, I managed to get a weak signal on my Telecom CDMA phone atop Magog,so I was able to text my wife Pam that all was OK. The weather been mostly finewith the odd passing scud.

Monday 21March (Day 2)

I hadalready decided not to try to get to the southernmost point of Stewart Island,so today was going to do a circumnavigation of the granite peaks of the Pegasusarea. Departed camp at 08:30, and the first stop was on top of Gog. Here thecell phone signal was better than Magog, so I got to talk to Pam this morning.The day is sunny and clear with a slight SE wind. From here I did a clockwiseloop to pt236, Bald Cone, pt. 200 and back to the camp at Magog at 18:15. Thearea is mostly easily traversed as the scrub is low, but there are some thickerbits on the sheltered southern faces of Magog in particular. It’s a harshenvironment for a plant down here. You’re trying to grow on bare rock, or in aswamp, all the time being battered by westerly gales and freezing temperatures.(And being walked on by trampers)

Tuesday 22March (Day 3)

DepartedMagog camp at 10:00, with a cool SE wind blowing, heading toward Cooks Arm.About ½ way there I pick up a well-worn track and follow it to the head ofCooks Arm. I’m there in an hour and want to get as far as possible along CooksArm with the tide out. The wind has dropped and the sun is shining. I arrive atthe real shipbuilder’s site at 12:15. The last part of the walk involved somecrutch deep wading and some bush travel. I hadn’t timed the tide exactly right.I stop for 15 mins only before following a due north compass bearing to returnto North Pegasus. I arrive at Basin Creek shortly before 18:00. It’s a shadydamp place but I’m tired so I stop here for the night. Since leaving Cooks Arm,I have covered about 5kms in 5 ½ hours. I’m happy with that. 50% easy going 50% challenging!

Wednesday 23March (Day 4)

Departedcamp at 09:00. Arrived at Belltopper Falls at 12:00. My navigation brought meout on the coast 200m south of the falls. I lunch for ½ an hour at the fallsbefore heading off to pick up my food stash. I arrive at the Surveyor’s trackat 13:50. The last ½ km was very scrubby and slow going. However, now I’m on atrack, it is only 20 mins before I arrive at my food stash. Now I have aproblem. With not having spent many days further south, with getting a big bagof sausages at the start, and now 2 more weeks of food in the stash, what am Igoing to do with all this food? I just manage to squeeze it all in by puttingwhat doesn’t fit into the pack, into a bum bag carried on the front. My pack isanother 10kg heavier and taller than my head. This created problem for mefurther up the tramline tracks as I have to climb over and crawl under theovergrowth. I choose to walk up the tramline track as it is an easy gradientall the way to the old dam site. In hindsight I should have used the Surveyor’strack instead. When the ‘Vollies” finally clear the whole tramline track, itwill be a brilliant route. But it is going to require some heavy cutting beforeit gets to that stage! I met a couple of hunters as I was heading up thetramline track. They were based at the North Pegasus hunters hut and told methat the weather forecast was good for the rest of the week. Just the news Iwant to hear for my traverse of the Tin Range. I finally reach the dam site at18:15 and set up camp there in a nice sunny spot adjacent to the dam. I’m goingto stay here 2 nights in an effort to reduce the food weight in my pack. Iwatch a lovely sunset at 20:00.

Thursday 24March (Day 5)

A rest day. A cool breeze to start with, but it warmed asthe day progressed to become a beautiful sunny day. Last night was rather cool,so tonight I will go to bed with more layers on. I took a hike up to the siteof the old tin mine near trig D. The mine was flooded so I didn’t go in for alook. I will try to make it to Rakeahua Hut tomorrow while I have this goodweather.

Friday 25March (Day 6)

It wasindeed another cool night, with a light frost on the ground, but a calm sunnyday followed. Departed camp at 0810 and summited Mt Allen at 1150. Note thatthere is a good route to the tops a few hundred metres below the damsite. The going is relatively easy with minimal scrub. There is mostly a well-worntrack to follow. I lunch for half an hour before heading off towards BlakiesHill. Blakies Hill is a Dotterel breeding area and is an area devoid of scrub,consisting of low tussock grasses, hebes and lots of kiwi holes. From here,marker poles show the route across the tableland toward Rakeahua. Eventually Ireach the scrub belt and an overgrown and in places boggy track. It’s stilleasily follow able, though frustrating at times and blood is drawn. I make itto the swing bridge across Rakeahua Stream by 18:30 and arrive at Rakeahua Hutat 19:00 as light rain starts. Good views were had from the Tin Range,especially down into Doughboy. The hut is full, so I camp outside for thenight.

Saturday 26March (Day 7)

Rest dayagain as it is raining. I move into the hut for a move comfortable bed. TheGraf brothers (and Dad) are here hunting the Rakeahua block. Interestingdiscussion ensued over the pros and cons of 1080. These guys are absolutelypassionate about their concern over the harm 1080 does to the native fauna. Isthere a better cost effective way to control introduced pests in NZ?

Sunday 27March (Day 8)

Departed hutin rain for Mt Rakeahua, arriving in just over 2 hours to a cold wind and mistyrain. No views to be had today! Isheltered behind the radio hut while I had a quick snack, and then headed offinto the scrub on a compass bearing toward Mason Bay. The scrub seemed to go onand on, but eventually I made it to open bush and easy travel. At one stage inthe scrub I found myself cast upside down with my foot caught and unable tomove without taking my pack off. I kept getting drawn into a steep creek, andwould have to keep sidling across the scrub to stay out of it. I managed to seea kiwi and whitetail in the open bush section. I broke out of the bush at 16:00and arrived at Mason Bay hut at 17:30, wet and dirty. However, the hut was niceand warm as there were several parties in residence. They were good company forthe evening and one of them, (Duncan) had done a stint with Pip (one of the girlson this year’s trip) as a Vollie on the tramline track a couple of yearsearlier.

Monday 28March (Day 9)

I head northalong Mason Bay beach in a strong SW wind and squalls of light rain. I lunchedjust north of Little Hell Fire beach in the shelter of the bush. Hunters are inresidence at LHF. I arrive at Big Hellfire Hut to find 2 people there. One ofthem was Mark Mellsop from the Permolat Group. All up today a relatively easy 6½ hrs.

Tuesday 29March (Day 10)

Left the hutat gentleman’s hours (1000), the wind is still blowing but the sun has comeout. The first part of the track is a little boggy, but I soon get throughthat, after which the track down to Waituna is great. It’s only taken 1 ½ hrs.As there are no hunters here, I decide to camp here for the night. I wentlooking for a fishing/paua spot but found nothing suitable due to the goodswell rolling in with the SW wind. There is a lot of deer sign around the southend of the beach where I am camped. At 1930, I spot a deer, and shortly afterthat a second one. One of them comes to within 40m of where I am sitting. After20 minutes I’m getting cold so I retreat back to the shelter of my tent.

Wednesday 30March (Day 11)

DepartedWaituna at 0945, and arrived at West Ruggedy Beach at 1230. I set up camp at avacant hunters camping spot about 250m from the beach. It is sheltered hereamongst the Manuka trees. However the wind has died away and it is sunny andwarm. Went for a walk to an elevated spot at the south end of the beach, whereI was able to text Pam that all was well. Then I dropped down to a fishing spotwhere I was able to catch a trumpeter and a wrasse. They like the limpets thatI was using as bait, though they don’t stay on the hook for long. I now havefresh fish for 2 nights. Tonight’s share was noodles, peas and fish spiced withpepper and curry powder. I finished off the day with a stroll along the beachand back just before dark.

ThursdayMarch 31 (Day 12)

Departed WRBat 0930 in sunny but windy conditions, and arrived at East Ruggedy Hut at 1045.The hut is set in a lovely open bush setting with low tree ferns. There is alarge pot here, so I boil up water to wash myself, shave and wash some clothes.Before long it starts to rain, so I light the fire to dry the clothes. Severaltrampers arrive and appreciate the fire. A French guy and I went for a walk inthe wet and windy conditions to try to catch some more fish. We didn’t have anyluck though, but it was an enjoyable 2 hour outing. Using some aluminium foilleft by a previous hunting party, I pouched the remaining trumpeter on the firebox, and again had it with noodles and peas.

Friday April1 (Day 13)

By the timeI left the hut at 0930, the day was looking brighter, and it turned out to besunny, but still with the incessant wind. I lunched at the eastern end of RockyBeach at 1200. In the next section toward Long Harry, I saw 2 kiwis on thetrack. From the site of the old Long Harry Hut, you look across the bay to thesite of the new hut, which doesn’t look too far away. However, it seems to takeages to get there as you climb up and through several gullies before droppingback down to the new hut. I arrive there at 1345. Went and caught more wrassefor tea. I share the hut with an English and Czech couple.

SaturdayApril 2 (Day 14)

DepartedLong Harry at 0915, and arrived at Yankee Hut at 1215. I’m back in familiarcountry again as I have hunted at Yankee a couple of times before. I reallyenjoyed the leisurely days just gone in the NW part of the island. It’s alovely part of Stewart Island with the back drop of the Ruggedy Mountains, andnice beaches. Went and caught a fish off the rocks before losing my handline.Went back later at low tide, skinny dipped to retrieve it, then proceeded tocatch several more wrasse for tea. There is a party of 4 hunters at Yankee Hut.

Sunday April3 (Day 15)

The huntersprovided me with a couple of slices of toast for breakfast. Awesome! (I reallyhang out for toast when I’m tramping) And they sent me on my way with a paua,which I will have for tea. Left Yankee Hut at 1000 and arrived at ChristmasVillage hut at 1500. The last 1 ½ hrs. seemed very monotonous. It wasinteresting to note the change in the bush after Lucky Beach. The podocarps nowstand tall and straight. No doubt this has to do with the warmer and moresheltered location on the NE side of the island, protected from the prevailingSW winds. I collected some firewood off the beach and got the fire going. Thehut is warm and cosy, and there is light rain outside. No one else is in thehut tonight. The last job for the day is to put my watch back 1 hr. at the endof daylight saving.

Monday April4 (Day 16)

Day trip toMt Anglem and return. It was raining just prior to getting up at 0730. Whilsthaving breakfast, the weather cleared with much blue sky. Departed hut at 0840,and arrived atop Mt Anglem at 1120 in sun but with a freezing SW wind. However,on the way up, I struck hail, sleet, rain and sun! I didn’t stick around upthere as my hands were freezing, and I was pleased to get down to the shelterof the bush again. There is definitely a taste of winter in the air. Back atthe hut, I collected more firewood and spent the afternoon in front of thefire. Another night with no other company with the exception of whitetail deer!At 1615, I spooked a deer out by the back door. I put out some broadleaf to seehow much got eaten during the night. At 1845, I spied 2 deer grazing just infront of the hut. They slowly worked their way around 3 sides of the hut. Atone stage, I’m looking out the window with a deer not more than 1m below me.

TuesdayApril 5 (Day 17)

Up at 0630,no sight of deer outside. After a visit to the loo, I stopped to look at thebroadleaf browse. It had almost been stripped. I went back inside to fire upthe stove, glanced around to see a deer browsing the broadleaf. I sneaked overto the door and very slowly eased it open; the deer was only 3m away when I tooka photo of it. Unfortunately I could only see its eyes when I reviewed itbecause most of the light had bounced back off the veranda post just off to theside. With a lot of enhancement, I managed to get a blurry image. I left thehut at 0810 and arrived at Murray Beach at 1040. On the way I called into theold Christmas Village Hut for old time’s sake and managed to perk a couple ofcans of food and 3 packets of noodles. I ate one of the cans of baked beans atMurray Beach as an early lunch. I left the western end of Murray beach at 1200and arrived at the Bungaree Hut at 1330. There was a big group of friendlyhunters at Bungaree. They had boats, rods, divers and rifles. Within a coupleof hours, I was treated to cups of tea, fresh cod and oysters. Later I had realmashed potato with my tea, whisky and more oysters! Thanks guys.

WednesdayApril 6 (Day 18)

It’s a coldwet day so I’m staying put. Who wouldn’t! I went and caught more wrasse fortea. A deer appeared briefly on the beach mid-afternoon. Later I went for astroll and could see where the animal had been bedded down. The rest of the immediatearea was definitely not animal friendly. 6 trampers turned up in the afternoonso all up tonight we had 17 at the hut. Amongst the trampers were Frank and Honora,also Permolat members. I had my fish and noodles for tea, but that was thenfollowed by paua patties, awesome homemade soup and a can of beer. Was I fullafter that!

ThursdayApril 7 (Day 19)

Although thehunting party had offered me a ride back to Bluff with them, I decided to carryon as I had thought of finishing this trip with a day walk around the Rakiuracircuit. So I left Bungaree at 0815. First stop was Little Bungaree, then on toPort William. I was going to camp at Maori Beach but these sites have to be prebooked, so I carried on to Oban, arriving there at 1415. The DOC office told methat the Rakiura track was very muddy in places due to it being recut. Also theweather forecast for tomorrow was for more cold wet conditions. I was over mudby now, so went down to the ferry terminal and booked a ride back to Bluff thatafternoon. The shuttle bus dropped me off at my brother’s place in Invercargillabout 1700. The weather in Invercargill over the next 2 days was no better! Ihave now completed my goal of walking the length of the South Island, and mostof Stewart Island. What am I to do next?

What's happening in 2011

2010-10-21T11:43:00.000-07:00

In March next year, I am heading down to Stewart Island for a trip into Port Pegasus as a DOC volunteer. Following that, I intend explore the southern part of the island before walking out to Oban. All up, I expect the trip to take about 3 - 4 weeks. Cheers Andrew

PS. I made it to Stewart Island and spent 4 weeks there, but have'nt had time yet to update the blog. Explored Gog and Magog and Bald Cone before walking out via the Tin Range and the NW circuit. Loved the volunteer project maintaining the old tin mine tramline, the company was great. Cheers Andrew

GPX Files of the Traverse Route

2010-06-08T01:47:00.001-07:00

Click on the following link to see a list of my GPX files

http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0ByRlzv-9d70IMTQyZTY3NzQtNzNiNC00ZWQzLTk1NTctOWJlYmM2MGExYzI2&hl=en

Cheers Andrew

The Whole South Island Route.

2010-06-03T04:13:00.001-07:00

Useless Statistics of the Whole Trip!

2010-06-03T03:35:00.000-07:00

It took me 80 days where I did at least some walking.
The total distance travelled was 1497 kms which took 634 hrs.
That works out to be an average speed of 2.36km/hr.
The fastest paced section was 3.24km/hr from St Arnaud to Aickens.
The slowest paced section was 1.69km/hr from Aickens to Erewhon.
The fastest paced day was 4.95km/hr from the lower Dart to the Routeburn.
The slowest paced day was 0.71km/hr up the Blue River.

Note. distance is measured horizontally from a map, so doesn't include changes in altitude.
Therefore the actual distances are greater.

Reflections on the Journey So Far

2010-05-23T02:09:00.000-07:00

Some people have asked me what were my favourite and least favourite parts. That is rather hard to answer because the country is so diverse and offer their own sets of challenges.

Easily the hardest section was the Westcoast from Aickens to the Whitcombe Pass. Rugged mountains, overgrown tracks, and continual boulder hopping up the Whitcombe.

The easiest sections were thru the Waiau/Lake Sumner areas and Mavora Lakes area.

The worst river crossing would have to have been the Rakaia tributaries, the Lyell and Ramsay. I hindsight, I shouldn't have crossed either, but I got away with it!

The best moment was when I arrived at Ailsa Pass above the Murchison Valley and saw the panorama of the mountains laid out before me.

Sone of the most satisfying days were when I crossed the Tasman & Hooker Glaciers and climbed their respective moraine walls, and crossed the Ball and Copeland Passes.

The most fearful day was when I went for a skate up the Harman River. Then having to climb back down without adequate equipment, knowing that if I stuffed up, it would have been all over. Ignorance is bliss! I did a snow and ice course after this.

The most beautiful valley was the Wilkin, with its turquoise pools and lovely mountain backdrop, and it no doubt helped that the weather was great too. But I also loved the Landsborough for its remoteness, diversity and ruggedness.

Lonely Lake and Adelaide Tarn in the Douglas Range would also be one of my favourites too.

The remotest feeling probably came when I was up the Okuru before crossing Maori Saddle, even though it's only 1.5 days from the road.

The most disappointing was crossing Cascade Saddle in foul weather and not being able to take in the views. Similarly, the Routeburn was the same. And I hated the continual noise of helicopters on the Routeburn as they were building a new lodge at the time. But that's what you get on Great Walks, people and noise!

Thanks to Erewhon Station for their hospitality, and I will always remember the lovely soft grass in front of the old homestead as well as the Clydesdale's working the paddocks.

The most apprehension came prior to crossing the Rangitata and climbing Alma Col, though they both turned out to be OK.

My favourite huts would have been those with an open fire, such as Lucretia Hut and the Lauper Biv. Also the Rubicon Rock Biv in the upper Landsborough was great.

The saddest part was losing my walking stick during my return home after TeWaewae Bay. I had it's company for the whole trip except the Westcoast section. It was made of Neinei which is strong but light. Having walked all that way with it, it becomes your companion and occasionally
I would find myself talking to it. I could not have got across many of the rivers without it.

I still think of the last section as a bit of a cop out. Skirting around the eastern edge of Fiordland is not even close to the challenge of traversing Fiordland west of Lake Manapouri and Lake Te Anau. Hopefully next year I will get to find out! I currently have one other person interested in joining me on this attempt. If you know of any others of a like mind, get them to get in touch with me through this blog.

And the best part of all. The more I see, I realise that there is so much more to see!

Cheers Andrew

Maps of The Divide to Te Waewae Bay

2010-05-22T01:34:00.000-07:00

Greenstone to Manapouri 1_1M

Manapouri to Te Waewae Bay 1_1M

The Divide to Mararoa 1_250k

Mararoa to Te Anau 1_250k

Te Anau to Nth Borland 1_250k

Nth Borland to Kaherehoau Mtns 1_250k

Keherehoau Mtns to Te Waewae Bay 1_250k

Photos of The Divide to Te Wae Wae Bay

2010-05-21T23:42:00.001-07:00

Looking down the Greenstone from Greenstone Hut

Pond Burn toward Mararoa

Nth Mavora Lake

Self Taking a Break, Upper Whitestone

Mt Titiroa

Lake Manapouri

Rock Formations, Mt Titiroa 1

Rock Formations, Mt Titiroa 2

Self on Top of Mt Titiroa

Nth Borland Hut

Island Lake

The Landslide

Lake Hauroko in Cloud & Caroline Peak

Hump Island in a Sea of Cloud

Camp & Steep Spur Kaherehoau Mtns

Beech Forest Scene Lake Hauroko

Mossy Trees on the Hump

Toilet Mural Tuatapere

2010-05-21T22:57:00.000-07:00

The Divide to Te Wae Wae Bay (Jan/Feb 2010)

Summary

Day 1. The Divide to Greenstone Hut 7.5hrs 28km

Day 2. Greenstone Hut to South Mavora Lake 13hrs 43km

Day 3. South Mavora Lake to Te Anau 14hrs 57km

Day 4. Te Anau to Hope Arm Hut 5hrs 32kms Run/Swim/Walk

Day 5. Hope Arm Hut to Nth Borland Hut 10.5hrs 15km

Day 6. Nth Borland Hut to Clarke A Frame 11hrs 33km

Day 7. Clarke A Frame to Kaherehoau Mountains 11.25hrs 13kms

Day 8. Kaherehoau Mountains to Same 2.5hrs 4kms

Day 9. Kaherehoau Mountains to Lake Hauroko 10.25hrs 19kms

Day 10. Lake Hauroko to Rowallan Burn Te Wae Wae 13.75hrs 38kms

Friday 29 January (Day 1)

I caught the Tracknet bus to The Divide at 0715 and arrived there at 0830. All the other people that alighted, got busy applying insect repellent. I got busy walking! Don’t they know that sandflies aren’t fast flyers and don’t bite if you stay moving. Arrived at Lake Howden hut after ¾ hr, with a further 1 ½ hrs to McKellar hut. I lunched for an hour on the grassy river flats below McKellar, which included a little bit of shut eye. It was warm with a light tail wind. I arrived at the Greenstone hut at 1600, so it had taken 4 hours walking time from McKellar hut. I initially thought that I would have tea here before heading off to the Taipo hut. However, I was feeling rather tired, so I decided to stay there the night and had an early night.
Yesterday had been a long day! Prior to this tramp, I had done the Central Otago Rail Trail with Pam and 3 other couples. It was great fun. Yesterday I had biked the length of the trail from Middlemarch to Clyde and then driven around to Te Anau for the night.
The Greenstone didn’t do much for me, maybe I have seen too many other valleys the same? Some snow on the tops would make it nicer.
I am tramping this year in off-road running shoes. I wonder how they will go? They certainly are light and my feet don’t feel unduly sore.

Saturday 30 January (Day 2)

I woke the next morning refreshed but with the sound of rain on the roof. By the time I left the hut it was only raining lightly. I arrived at the Taipo hut at 1015 via the Saddle Burn, the rain having already cleared by 0930. It was another 3hrs to Boundary hut, where I had a pleasant break and a dip in the river. Boundary hut marks the end of the 4WD track from the Mavora Lakes end, and there is plenty of sign of 4WD antics on the surrounding banks. So from here onwards it is just a case of walking down a 4WD track to the Mavora Lakes. It took 1 ¼ hrs to Carey’s hut where I stopped for tea. Carey’s hut has been something special in its day, having had piped water, a coal range complete with wet back, and a shower! It reminded me of the Anatoki Forks hut in Kahurangi. To finish the day, I carried on for another 2 ½ hrs and setup camp down the side of South Mavora Lake. Quite by chance, I ran into the a DOC lady (Ruth) at the camping ground, who I had done a stint with in the Murchison mountains back in October. All up it has been a pleasant day, warm with a slight breeze, and the track is easy and progress very good.

Sunday 31 January (Day 3)

Today has turned out to be the longest stint I have done so far on this traverse, having departed camp at South Mavora Lake at 0740 and arriving in Te Anau just on dark at 2145. A distance of about 54km. It’s been another glorious day, fine and warm.
The first section was to the Kiwi Burn swing bridge, then I cut directly up the loop track to the Kiwi Burn and then onto the Kiwi/Whitestone Saddle. I had a lunch stop when I arrived at the Whitestone River. The first section of the river down to Glen Echo station pleasant, but from there onwards, it was rather monotonous. I tried to avoid disturbing stock as much as possible. There is legal access through the station if you stick to the river the whole way. I stopped for tea and a swim just short of the road. The water is so warm as the river is running very low. I arrived at the road bridge at 1900. Then I walked down the road for an hour before discarding the pack in a roadside shelter and walking the remaining 12km to Te Anau. I then jumped in the car and drove back to pick up the pack, before booking myself back into the motor camp for a soft bed and hot shower. The initial plan was to take 4 days to walk back to Te Anau, but with a lighter pack and easy country, made excellent progress to do it in 3 days. There’s no harm in being ahead of schedule.

Monday 1 February (Day 4)

I slept in til 0800 and checked out of the motor camp at 1000. After purchasing a couple of small packs of mince, I drove to Manapouri to drop off my pack and to suss out a way of crossing the Waiau River. The control gates were along way down stream, so walking wasn’t an option. However there is a water taxi service at Pearl Harbour that takes people across to the walking track on the other side. The operator was friendly and very flexible as to when he will take you across. He had to pick up a tramper at 1500 from the other side so I decided to cross at the same time.

After enjoying a lovely morning tea at the Church Café in Manapouri, I drove back to Te Anau and parked the car.
I departed Te Anau at 1230 and jogged the 21km back to Manapouri in the heat of the day! This could be my only training run for the Buller ½ Marathon on the 14th Feb? The run took 1 3/4 hrs and I was so hot when I arrived, I decided to swim across the river to cool off. That way, I could say that I had done the length of the island under my own steam. Well it’s a long way across there for a swimmer of my capability, but I managed it there and back. After a bite to eat, the water taxi then took me and my pack across to the jetty on the other side!
I departed the jetty at 1530 and arrived at the Hope Arm hut at 1800, somewhat tired from the long walk yesterday and the run today. The sandflies are thick here. I’m in bed at 2030 as I want an early start tomorrow for the climb up Mt Titiroa before the day gets too hot.

Tuesday 2 February (Day 5)

The day is fine and warm. I leave the Hope Arm hut at 0655. It takes 1:50hrs to cross the saddle into the Garnock Burn. I stop only to fill the water bottles and take a compass bearing to a prominent rocky knob that is my destination. Some maps show a track up onto Mt Titiroa from the Garnock Burn, but there is none. However, like most beech forest, the bush is open and the going easy. I did have to climb around a small bluff though. The bush line was reached after 2hrs. Mt Titiroa is quite distinctive for its rocky outcrops and white silicate sand, giving it a snow like appearance even in the middle of summer. Technically called feldspar (aluminosilicate minerals). The summit is reached at 1405, just over 7hrs from Hope Arm hut. There are good views all round. From the summit, I see an easy route into the Nth Borland via pt 1159. I arrive at the Nth Borland hut at 1730, where I find 2 cans of beer awaiting me. Thanks to whoever left them there.

Wednesday 3 February (Day 6)

After hearing a mouse in the hut, I set a trap. Result, one dead mouse in the morning. The weather is fine and warm. Departed hut at 0745 and arrived at the Middle Borland at 1000. Just a wee bit further on I passed a fantastic rock biv, probably the biggest I’ve seen to date. It has a wooden floor and mattresses, so would be very comfortable. Arrived at the South Borland at 1100. After a short break, I headed up the South Borland to meet up with the hydro road. This short bit of track that took 45mins, is very pleasant. It sidles through lovely ferny faces and under some nice bluffs. Then it was a long hot slog up the hydro road to the Borland Saddle, followed by a short sharp descent to the Borland shelter. The road section took 2:30hrs.
The Borland Saddle has an interesting display panel describing the world biggest documented landslide. At the end of the last ice age, 27 cubic kilometres of the Hunter Mountains slid into the top 1/3 of what was a much bigger Lake Monowai. It created the area that now contains Green and Island Lakes.
I had a short nap at the Borland shelter before heading off to the Clarke A frame at the head of the Grebe Valley. Apart from a fleeting look at Island Lake on the way past, I found this section rather tedious, though I was getting a bit tired, it having taken me 2:50hrs. I arrived at the Clarke A frame at 1845, but ended up tenting nearby as there were 2 DOC workers in resident. They were there track cutting, but you wouldn’t have noticed! The sandflies are thick here, so I am pleased to be snug inside my tent.

Thursday 4 February (Day 7)

Up at 0530, and away at 0700, I arrived at the Monowai Hut at the head of Lake Monowai at 0900. Fishermen here kindly allowed me to use their gas and make myself a coffee as they headed out in their boats. And their fly spray came in very handy when it came to use the long drop!
I departed the hut at 0945 and began the sidle around the western side of the lake. It wasn’t long before I struck the first bluffs on this steep sided mountain. It is just a matter of climbing over or under them as you pass. It didn’t seem to make much difference as to whether you sidled high or low. Eventually I reached the Electric River at1455. The original plan was to carry on to Eel Creek, but I wasn’t looking forward to anymore sidling, so decided to cut directly up to pt 1177. Departed river at 1530, and reached the bush line after 2hrs. Going was easy, but I was wet with sweat. Stopped for a 15min break, then it was a further 30mins to the tarns beside pt 1177 where I setup camp. The water in these shallow tarns was really warm so I had a lovely bath. There was cell phone coverage as well.

Friday 5 February (Day 8)

As I am ahead of schedule, and the weather is really nice, I have decided to have an easy day. It is lovely up here in the Kaherehoau Mountains and the tops are easy going. So I sleep in til 0700, then I went for a 2hr stroll around the tops, and to get a look into Lake Hauroko. The valleys and all of Southland are covered in low cloud. The Hump looks like an island in a sea of cloud. Beautiful! The cloud lifts off Lake Monowai later in the morning.
I break camp at midday and move camp to a new site near the saddle into Eel Creek. There are a couple of small tarns here not shown on the map. It’s only been a 2:30hr walk to here. I’m in bed at 1900.

Saturday 6 February (Day 9)

Up at 0530 and away at 0650. The day is again fine and warm. It is an easy 4:30hr walk to Oblong Hill, with about an hour of that time taken to traverse the bush saddle immediately before Oblong Hill. Departed 1215 and followed an old steep track down toward Lake Hauroko. Lost the track halfway down and after negotiating through some bluffs, made my way to the lake shore and thence onto the shelter at the jetty, arriving at 1445. Departed shelter 1510 and followed the lake edge track around to the peninsular. I enjoyed the track across the peninsular as it was a mixed beech/prodocarp forest, a nice change from the pure beech everywhere else. There were Matai, Rimu, Totara and Miro. It makes one wonder why only in this area? I set up camp in the bay on the other side of the peninsular at1700. I will try and reach Te Wae Wae Bay tomorrow since I am making good progress. I have a big tea to lighten the load.

Sunday 7 February (Day 10)

It started to drizzle just before 0600. Broke camp at 0655 and arrived at Teal Bay hut at 1105. I’m now back in pure beech forest and enjoy the walk along the ridge in the misty conditions. I pass a party of 3 heading the other way. It is a steep descent into Teal Bay. Departed Teal Bay hut at 1135, and arrived at the bush line in 2:10hrs, just as the sun was breaking through the cloud. Made the hump in 3 hrs, but the mist and wind made it rather cool so I only stayed there 15mins. Departed at 1450 and arrived at the south coast at 1800. The track down from the Hump is rather overgrown and I’m now in leatherwood country again! It’s very unforgiving stuff! Then it’s onto an old 4WD track through regenerating beech forest to the coast. I walk down to the shoreline and take a picture to record the occasion. I’m happy to be here, after all this is what I have been tramping toward these last 6 years. But I’m not as elated as I thought I would be, perhaps because I still have quite a walk to get to Tuatapere.
I continue along the beach, then onto the track to the road end. It’s not suitable to camp there so I carry on to the start of the tarseal at the Rowallan Burn, arriving there at 2045. There is a cold wind blowing off the sea, so I was pleased to get the tent up and get inside it. It’s been a long day.

Monday 8 February (Day 11)

I slept in until 0715. I had just finished breakfast when I saw the Hump Ridge Track van drive past just before 0800, earlier than I would have expected. Hoping that I might get a ride to Tuatapere on its return, I hastily pack up and start walking along the road. I had only gone 200m when he picked me up and took me into Tuatapere, even dropping me off at the holiday park.
He wouldn’t take a fare; thanks mate. But I’ll be back at some stage to walk the Hump Ridge Track with my wife Pam in relative luxury.
I gladly paid $5 for a hot shower at the holiday park, and morning tea was a pot of English breakfast tea and a whitebait omelette. The rest of the day was spent relaxing and drying out wet gear. The bus arrived mid afternoon and took me back to Te Anau, and from there I drove back to Franz Josef to stay with my son Phillip.

Well I didn’t regret the decision to walk in running shoes. What with the dry conditions and relatively easy terrain, they were ideal.
The highlights for me this year were the Mararoa area, Mt Titiroa and the Kaherekoau Mountains.

2010-02-08T17:43:00.000-08:00

Self and my trusty Walking Stick at Te Wae Wae Bay

Traverse of South Island Completed

2010-02-08T17:36:00.000-08:00

Well I made it! I walked out at the Track Burn in Te Wae Wae Bay this Sunday just gone, 7th Feb 2010. It took me 10 days to walk, run and swim from "The Divide". Weather was mostly fine and warm, hence few sandflies were encounted! Details and photos to follow in the coming weeks. Cheers Andrew

2009-12-29T01:17:00.000-08:00

Proposed Route Feb 2010

Maps of Haast to The Divide

2009-05-06T02:49:00.001-07:00

Haast to The Divide 1.1M

Haast to Young 250

Young to Matukituki 250

Wilkin to Dart 250

Matukituki to Dart 250

Dart to The Divide 250

Photos of Haast to The Divide

2009-04-27T02:36:00.000-07:00

Starting point where the Burke pools at the confluence of the Haast

First nights camp on the fine gravels of the Burke

Douglas Saddle between the Howe & Okuru

Moari Saddle from Douglas Saddle. Eyetooth in background

Maori Saddle from the Okuru

Easy crossing of the Blue at the Junction

Looking down from Gillespie Pass into the head of the South Young

Siberia Valley with a light frost

View of Mt Pollux from the South Wilkin

Waterfall Face in the South Wilkin

Rabbit Pass

Looking down to Aspiring Hut from the Cascade Saddle route

View down the West Matukituki

Cattle Flat in the Dart Valley

Dredge Flat in the Dart Valley from Sandy Bluff

Mts Nox and Chaos from the Dart Valley

Earland Falls on the Routeburn Track

Looking back on the Routeburn Track in the Hollyford Valley

Destination reached!

Haast - The Divide (Feb/Mar 2009)

2009-04-10T23:57:00.000-07:00

Summary

Day 1. Haast to Burke 7 hrs 5 kms

Day 2. Burke to Howe 7 hrs 6 kms

Day 3. Howe to Okuru 11.5 hrs 12 kms

Day 4. Okuru to Blue 8.5 hrs 8 kms

Day 5. Blue to Makarora to Young 11 hrs 36 kms

Day 6. Young to Siberia 7 hrs 9 kms

Day 7. Siberia to Wilkin 8.5hrs 23 kms

Day 8. Wilkin to Ruth Flat 10 hrs 16 kms

Day 9. Ruth Flat to Aspiring Hut 10.5 hrs 32 kms

Day 10. Rest/Wet Weather Day.

Day 11. Aspiring Hut to Dart Hut 6 hrs 14 kms

Day 12. Dart Hut to Dart Shelter 9 hrs 32 kms

Day 13. Dart Shelter to Routeburn Flat 9.5 hrs 47 kms

Day 14. Routeburn Flat to The Divide 7 hrs 25 kms

Wednesday 25 Feb (Day 1)

I managed to leave Richmond about 13:15 on Monday 23rd. That followed a hectic weekend of running, packing, and a harrier meeting. I drove to Hokitika and called in to see Stephanie and Kevin for an hour. Then off to Franz Josef for fish and chips and finally I arrive at Pleasant Flat at 2200 to camp the night.
On Tuesday, I headed off to Makarora to organise a food drop and intentions sheet with DOC, followed by a cooked breakfast at the café next door. Next stop was Cameron Flat up the Matukituki where I stashed another food drop. Back in Wanaka, I booked the Atomic shuttle bus to take me back to Haast from Queenstown in the morning. Then it was off to Queenstown to purchase some tent pegs that I had forgotten. I spent the night at the motor camp at Frankton.
The Atomic shuttle picked me up 0740 and I arrived at Burke Flat at 1100.
I crossed the Haast River just above the confluence with the Burke, then crossed the Burke at the confluence where the river pools. It didn’t look that deep, but it turned out to be chest deep! I lunched on the sandbank before departing up the Burke at 1145. I arrived at Strachan Creek at 1530, longer than I expected, but in hindsight I sidled too high through the bluffs. This creek is certainly spectacular. As per Moir’s guide, the old swing bridge site is not crossable, so I climbed 100m further up the spur and dropped down a gut that led to a better crossing. I marked this gut with pink flagging tape as there was no sign of the plastic discs mentioned in Moir’s. Once over the creek, I again sidled too high but eventually picked up the permolat that marked the old track. I stopped at 1900 and made camp on the river shingle, 1.2km below Twirligig. The weather has been fine and warm.

Thursday 26 Feb (Day 2)

Up at 0700 and away at 0820. I arrived at the Howe junction at 1200. The crossing here was also chest deep but with minimum flow. Getting here today was slow and did not involve as much river travel as I had expected. After a quick lunch, I was keen to get going and warm up again. Initially I started up the Howe riverbed but it soon gorged. I had to climb steeply and high on the TR to get onto a terrace. At this point I picked up a very good game trail that I was able to follow all the way to the first flat. I imagine it probably started at the Howe/Burke confluence! I suggest anyone heading this way to pick up this game trail at the confluence, and don’t bother trying to go up the river. I arrived at the first flat at 1530, and as it was raining lightly and I was tired and wet, I decided to camp here the night. Once again the fine river gravel provided an ideal tent site. The going is slower than expected.

Friday 27 Feb (Day 3)

Departed at 0800, stepped into the bush on the TL and low and behold, another deer trail. I was able to follow this to the 600m contour, arriving at 1015. I then followed the river/grassy flats to the forks, except just below the forks, pick up a game trail on the TR at the top of the flat. Follow this up through a ferny gut at which point it sidles out to the top flat. I arrived at the forks at 1130, in sunny conditions with a warm breeze. I departed the forks at 1200, taking the southern branch. I boulder hopped initially, then at the first obstacle cut up a stream coming in on the TR, before bush bashing back to the river. At the next obstacle, I cut up into the bush on the TL, where once again a good deer trail was found and followed all the way to the tussock. It was an easy climb to Douglas saddle, arriving at 1600.
In retrospect, the Howe is relatively easy if you stick to the well worn deer trails. Start on the TR to the first flat, cross to the TL till the 600m contour. Follow the river/grassy flats until just before the forks, pickup another deer trail on the TR. From the forks take the TL to the top flats
I dropped down a gut at the saddle which didn’t turn out to be as easy as it looked. However I managed to sidle across to the south and drop down a scrubby gut. As per Moir’s guide, I made my way across to the first creek and scrub bashed down the second. However instead of cutting left into the bush, I went right. I got down to the Okuru ok except I had to keep cutting across gutty creeks to stay out of trouble. On the TL of the Okuru, another game trail was found and followed most of the way to the top flat. I arrived at the head of the top flat at 1930. It has been a longish but enjoyable day today. Temperature dropping as night approaches. I’m looking forward to a good restful sleep as the body is feeling weary.

Saturday 28 Feb (Day 4)

I woke to fine but breezy conditions, and red cloud out to the east. I thought Maori Saddle was going to be quite windy but it turned out not to be. Mist was slowly building on the tops but never quite got as low as the saddle. Departed at 0830. The initial scrub bash was a bit frustrating, but once to the grass the going was easy all the way down to the scrub zone in the Blue. I arrived at the crossing point at 1100. The saddle itself is not used due to bluffs on the Blue side and you actually cross at the next saddle to the south. The mist was lower in the Blue so I didn’t get to view the mountains at its head. I arrived at the river at 1215, where I stopped for lunch for ½ an hour. Started down the Blue on the TR initially, but was forced to cross to the TL where the going was easier. At the first finger of bush that comes down to the river, I picked up a newly cut DOC track which I was able to follow all the way out to the main road! At the first flat the track crosses to the TR and stays on that side to the north branch. Passed pt744 flat at 1445 and made camp further down at 1700. As I was erecting the tent it started to spit, then turned to steady rain as the evening progressed. The rain eased in the middle of the night to intermittent drizzle. Having travelled south on the west side of the divide, I am now travelling north on the east of the divide! Not the most direct route south! Very little deer sign in the Blue compared to the west.

Sunday 1 March (Day 5)

Away at 0840 in drizzly weather. Arrived at the forks at 1000, and the main road at 1240. A very good crossing point to the TL at the forks. I then had an 8km walk down the road to Makarora. Picked up my food drop here, left my intentions with DOC, then wandered over to the café for a hot lunch with lots of meat. Rang Pam to let her know I was OK. DOC gave me a weather update, which forecast 4 fine days followed by heavy rain. I had intended resting up at Makarora for the rest of the day, but with the heavy rain coming, I wanted to be over Rabbit Pass before it hit. This meant that I would have to keep going to achieve this, with a safety margin of one day if the front came earlier. I got a lift back up the road to the Young access point with a couple who wanted to see me cross the river! They were thinking about crossing the following day. The Makarora was up slightly, but I crossed without problem just upriver of the Young. The Young track is well formed, so I was able to make good progress. Instead of camping at the forks as I had originally intended, I continued up the south branch to the hut, arriving at 2140. (the last hour with a headlamp) The south branch rises steeply for quite a while above a narrow gorge. However, it had only taken me about 4 hours since crossing the Makarora. At least I will enjoy the luxury of a hut tonight, as well as now being 1 day ahead of schedule.

Monday 2 March (Day 6)

I rose at 0630 and left the hut at 0830. The pack seems heavier today, probably a reaction to the longer day yesterday. Both the uphill and downhill have been a struggle today. Gillespie Pass starts with quite a steep climb and I got to the pass at 1130. The track down into Gillespie Stream is quite hard on the knees. I arrive at Siberia Hut at 1530. I had thought of a side trip up to Lake Crucible as I passed, but in the end, decided for the hut and a restful afternoon. It really has been hard work today. Although the day started out drizzly, the sun came out when I started for the pass. There was enough breeze to prevent me getting too hot on the climb, but then I found it too cold at the top to want to stop for any length of time. The Siberia Valley is beautiful, warm and sunny, so spend the afternoon relaxing and drying out wet gear. I had a quick splash bath in the creek. The hut has a good group of people in it tonight from all parts of the world. I’m off to bed early tonight.

Tuesday 3 March (Day 7)

I had a good night’s sleep last night, the best so far. The day dawns fine with a light frost and morning mist. I left the hut at 0900 after the latest weather forecast. Nothing has changed since Makarora. A young Canadian chap called Jerimiah had made an impromptu decision to join me this morning for the next leg over Rabbit Pass to Cameron Flat. He manages to scrape together enough food from the hut to keep him going for a couple of extra days. We meet at Kerrin Forks for the river crossing. The walk to here is on a good benched track and takes only 1 ½ hours. We cross at the jet boat landing and the water is not much deeper than the bottom of my shorts. We suss out an old musterers hut before moving on to Kerrin Forks Hut. We have a bite to eat here before heading off at noon. Some food has been left in the hut by a couple called Carolyn and John for use on their return today. We leave it alone. A couple of hundred metres up the track, I realise I have left my walking stick behind, so I jog back to get it. Jeremiah must be a distraction, as I would not normally forget it! Further up the track we ran into a couple coming the other way. I assume them to be Carolyn and John. I say “Hello Carolyn, how are you today?” She pulls off her sunglasses to have a closer look at this person that supposedly knows her. I say “You don’t know me, I saw your packet of food at the hut” But in actual fact I did know them, having spoken to them on the Atomic shuttle heading up to Haast! After chatting for several minutes, we carry on up the Wilkin. The track proves to be easy and we arrive at Jumbo Flat (named after a horse) after 2 ½ hours. We stop for a cuppa and some food. Off again at 1530, and to our surprise we arrive at Top Forks Huts at 1730. Top Forks huts are located opposite the North Branch of the Wilkin and looks out over a lovely view of Mts Pollux and Castor. All up it’s been a fantastic day, fine and warm, and a stark contrast to how I felt yesterday. I think the Wilkin is the nicest valley that I have been in so far this trip. The river has lots of deep turquoise coloured pools in it. In hindsight I wished I had taken some photos of them! There are 2 huts at Top Forks, I stay in the old one and Jeremiah stays in the newer. We each have a hut to ourselves. I have another splash bath this evening, 2 in 2 days! A good day as I have had today makes me tend to forget all those bad moments of previous days. Tomorrow, I will get to see what all the fuss is all about with respect to Waterfall Face and Rabbit Pass.

Wednesday 4 March (Day 8)

I didn’t sleep quite as well last night, but it was enough. Up at 0600 and away by 0730. A very pleasant but steep walk to Waterfall Flat with some great views along the way. Arrived there after 3 hrs. Waterfall face was not what I expected at all, much easier in fact. There were good rocky footholds and tussocky handholds, the only thing needed was care and a head for heights. It took me 35mins to climb. The valley above the falls climbed gently around to Rabbit Pass, but as we approached the pass, the wind picked up big time. It was actually quite dangerous as we walked along the ridge adjacent to the line of bluffs. At times I had to crouch down on the ground to avoid the worst of the gusts. I certainly wasn’t keen to look over the side with the wind at my back! Once we got to the drop off point, we were out of the worst of the wind, but still felt cold. The drop down the rocky gut should have been straight forward as well, if we had stuck to the track! I’d had a look down there and didn’t like the look of it at one point, so I had decided to abseil down a short section. While I was setting up, Jeremiah had gone ahead and ended up slipping 3-4 metres. Luckily he didn’t do too much damage, but did take a chunk of skin out of one hand, as well as small gash just below his knee. As I was patching him up, he pointed out a marker over where we should have gone. I went over there and found that the track down to there was actually quite good, and at the same time was able to recover the abseil anchor tape. We were very cold by then, so were only too happy to get down into the East Matukituki. We stopped at 1530, near the bottom for a bite to eat, before heading off again to Ruth Flat. We were both fairly tired by the time we got there, as it had taken 10hrs all up. We spend some time searching for a bivvy rock, to no avail. It was not until I got home that I found out that the bivvy rock was further up valley! After I had cooked tea, I realised that the “O” ring on the MSR had leaked the remaining fuel out of the bottle. Now I won’t be having any hot food or drink until I resupply, which luckily will be tomorrow. It is a good thing that I have a repair kit with me. These bloody cookers seem to require constant maintenance, especially since it doesn’t seem that long ago that the “O” ring was replaced. I wonder whether I would be better off with an old Optimist. At least they are reliable because they are so simple. (KISS) Jeremiah is going for an early start in the morning so he can hitch a ride out to Wanaka. I’ll sleep in.

Thursday 5 March (Day 9)

Man did it blow last night, but the tent stayed intact. Jerimiah was gone when I got up at 0700. Departed 0815. I walked down valley for an hour, then the climb started over Bledisloe Gorge. The track ascents to the grass, before sidling, and then drops directly to Junction Flat. I arrived there at 1145. From the tops I got good views of Cameron & Aspiring Flats but not of Mt Aspiring due to cloud. I lunched at Junction Flat in the warmth of the sun. Departed there at 1240, and arrived at the Otago Boys High School swing bridge at 1525. I sorted out the supplies I needed and left behind the things I didn’t. I think I ended up with a lighter pack overall. I was away again at 1615 and arrived at Aspiring hut at 1900, via the road and 4 wheel drive track. The weather is fine so I decide to camp @$5 per night. (Lodge is $25) They provide running water and a shelter. Rain is predicted tonight so it might turn out to be my first rest day tomorrow. I am 3 days ahead of schedule.

Friday 6 March (Day 10)

It rained steadily through the night and the river is in flood. It is my rest day and everyone at the lodge has departed so we campers move in and play cards most of the day. The sky clears at 2100, but it starts raining again at 0200 Saturday morning.

Saturday 7 March (Day 11)

It drizzled on and off in the morning. The weather forecast is not looking good for the next couple of days either so I decide to head away over Cascade Saddle to Dart Hut. With it only drizzling, I’m hoping the side creeks in the Dart will be crossable. My thoughts are on the Japanese lass who went missing recently. They only found her day pack downstream. Departed 1115 and I reach the pylon at 1415. Conditions are not so pleasant from here to the saddle, with misty wind-blown rain striking my face. No need to stop at the saddle so I carry on down the Dart. I even break into a jog in places where the track is good and the gravel soft. I arrive at Dart Hut at 1715. Conditions here are better, no wind or rain and a great spot for a hut.

Sunday 8 March (Day 12)

I wake up to more drizzle and leave the hut at 0830. The track from here is graded and benched, so it is easy and fast. I arrive at Daleys Hut at 1300. The sun came out about noon. The sandflies forced me inside the hut for lunch. Away again at 1400 and I arrive at the track end shelter at 1745. The weather remains fine except for the odd light shower. The Dart is very nice with big river flats, bluffs and the “Slip”. I saw one large boulder rolling down the slip and heard several others. I met a couple of hunters heading in on a whitetail hunt. They said the slip is a good area for the deer, but would you risk it with huge boulders rolling down? I camp at the shelter and head to bed early as I am a bit tired. Tomorrow will be a long day as the river is up and I will have to walk down to the bridge to get across to the Routeburn.

Monday 9 March (Day 13)

It drizzled in the night and it was a bit cooler, otherwise it has been a fine day. I got up at 0700 and headed away at 0830. I walked down the road to Mill Flat, then cut across to the river. The river appears to have dropped overnight, so I attempt to cross it. I find a braid and get across the first channel ok. However the second and main channel proves to be too deep and swift so I back-track and carry on down the road and all the way around Mt Alfred to the bridge. I arrive at the new Routeburn Shelter at 1645, but carry on to Routeburn Flat, arriving there at 1815. I setup my tent at the camping area but after the warden tells me it is going to cost me $30 to stay there, I move to the North Branch and camp over there for free. (It normally costs $15, but as I didn’t prepay, it costs double) My feet are very tired after the long walk (estimated at 47km) so I’m in the sack at 2115.

Tuesday 10 March (Day 14)

It rained in the night and there is more fresh snow on the tops. Up at 0700 and away at 0830. I reached the Harris Saddle at 1045. It is wet, windy and cold. I have a quick bite to eat in the shelter, before heading off again. I passed Lake McKenzie Hut at 1300 and Lake Howden Hut at 1500. I was impressed by the Earland Falls as I passed by. I arrived at the Divide at 1545, it was cold but not raining. The Routeburn was rougher than I expected in places, though still to a very high standard to what I am used to. The bus was due at 1745 so I filled in the time by cooking up some hot food and changing into dry clothes. There were some strange looks from the bus as I climbed onboard in my camo clothes and bare feet. I stayed at the Te Anau motor camp for the night and caught the bus to Queenstown the following morning.

Wednesday 11 March (Day 15)
It is even colder today, and we strike snow when on the bus to Queenstown. I enjoy a nice hot coffee at Frankton before heading off in the car to Wanaka. I pick up the gear left up the Matukituki and at Makarora, before heading up to Franz Josef to stay with Stephanie for the night. I arrive home on the evening of the 12th March. It’s all over for another year. I have already decided not to traverse west of Lake Te Anau at this stage, so next year I will do the Greenstone, Lake Mavora area instead.

Proposed trip Feb/March 09

2009-02-18T23:57:00.000-08:00

Well it's that time of year again. Doing it a little later this year due to work commitments etc. Last year I finished at Pleasant Flat on the Haast. This year I'll start there. Stage 1 will be the Burke, Howe, Douglas Saddle, Okuru, Maori Saddle and the Blue. I had thought of Siberia Saddle as it would have avoided backtracking. However, getting there sounded like a lot of scrub bashing and I absolutely hate that! Maybe that's the reason I like track cutting so much. I'll resupply at Makarora, then do the popular route of the Young, Siberia, Wilkin, Matukituki, Dart and Routeburn. Some of the passes will require care and good route finding, but I think I now have the experience and skills to cope. I don't want to be another statistic! I hope to pop out at the Divide 2 weeks from the start. Cheers Andrew

Photos of St Arnaud to Cape Farewell

2008-03-06T00:36:00.000-08:00

View of Lake Rotoiti from Kerr Bay

Mt Owen from the southern side.

Granity Pass from Mt Owen.

Cecil King's old hut on the Wangapeka track.

View of the Leslie & Karamea Valleys from the Tablelands.

Chaffey's old hut, Cobb Valley.

Mt Snowden and the cloud filled Waingaro Valley, taken from the ridge above Fenella Hut.

View of the Douglas Range and the Lead Hills taken from near Kakapo Peak.

The beautiful Adelaide Tarn and Lead Hills in the distance.

View of Boulder Lake from the hut on a misty evening.

Lorna Langford's store at Bainham.

Lush sub-tropical bush scene on the Kaituna track.

Cape Farewell.

Photos of St Arnaud to Aickens

2008-03-06T00:12:00.000-08:00

Blue Lake in the West Sabine.

Lake Constance from below the Waiau Pass.

View up the Waiau Valley from Caroline Bivvy.

View of the Faerie Queen in the Spenser Range taken from the Ada Valley near Christopher Hut.

Three Tarns Pass above Ada Pass.

View toward Ada Pass from the Lewis Pass.

Lucretia Biv.

View toward Harper Pass taken from near the Hope-Kiwi Saddle.

Lake Marion nestled in the saddle near Lake Sumner.

Lake Sumner from the track lookout.

Myself relaxing in the hot pools in the Otehake.

The old Aickens railway siding. (Since demolished)

Photos of Aickens to Erewhon

2008-03-05T23:40:00.000-08:00

View up Hunts Creek.

View up Julia Creek toward Pope's Pass.

View of the Harman and Arahura Rivers from unnamed saddle.

Adventure Bivvy above the Toaroha River.

The Old Price's Flat hut.

A pair of Whio (Blue Duck) in the Whitcombe.

The pile of rock that marks the Whitcombe Pass.

Looking down Lauper Stream toward the Rakaia River.

Lauper Bivvy, Rakaia riverbed.

View of the Rakaia River and Lauper Stream from near Butler Saddle.

View of Butler Saddle from the Lawrence riverbed.

Working Clydesdale horses, Erewhon Station.

Photos of Erewhon to Haast

2008-02-13T00:02:00.000-08:00

This first photo taken from the road near Mt Sunday, looks across the Rangitata to Alma Peak.

Looking down North East Gorge from Trojan Stream.

Unnamed saddle on the Sibbald Range between the Macaulay and Godley.

View of Rankin Stream from Sibbald Range.

Looking at the North Branch from Rankin's Hut.

Rankin Pass from Rankin Stream.

Looking down Ailsa Stream from below Ailsa Pass

Looking up from Ailsa Stream to Ailsa Pass

A great panorama from Ailsa Pass, looking across the Murchison & Tasman valleys to Mt Cook.

Looking down the Tasman Glacier opposite the Murchison Valley

View from the Copeland Pass looking across the Hooker Glacier toward the Ball Pass track. Can you see the Copeland Shelter?

Yours truly at the Copeland Pass.

View from track looking down the Karangarua toward Cassel Hut.

Ice at the top of the Maori Glacier. The route follows the rocky ridge to the left.

View from the upper Landsborough River, looking down toward the Karangarua Saddle.

Rubicon Biv, Upper Landsborough.

View down the Landsborough River from Rubicon Biv.

The rugged upper section of the Landsborough and probably the most scenic part at The Sentinal.

Looking up the Landsborough from Pleasant Flat. Mt Hooker is at the head of the Clarke River.

Tramping Inventory

2008-02-11T22:35:00.000-08:00

The following list outlines the gear I take on the traverse. I usually stock up for 10 days supply, though I normally arrange a food drop at about 7 days. All up weight is normally in the range of 25 - 30 kgs.

Pack (Macpac Cascade)
Pack Liner (Yellow)
Walking Stick (nei nei)
Tent (MSR Hubba)
Survival Sheet (used inside tent to waterproof floor)

Dry Bag
Sleeping Bag (Fairydown Scorpion)
Silk Liner (Kathmandu)
Small Towel
Camp Clothes
Fleece Pants
Fleece Top
LS Polyprop Top
Underpants
Hanky
Long Johns
Socks
Footwear

Tramping Clothes
Socks
Underpants
Hanky
Shorts
Long Johns
SS Polyprop Top
LS Polyprop Top[
Fleece Shirt
Balaclava
Gloves
Parka
Leggings
Sun Hat
Sun Glasses
Boots
Gaiters

HardwareMSR Dragonfly
MSR Fuel Bottle
Extra Fuel Bottle (optional)
Lighter
Billy & Lid
Saucepan & Lid (also used as an eating plate)
SS Cup
Billy Tongs
Wooden Spoon
Cutlery Set
Scrubbing Cloth Green
Wiping Cloth Yellow
Pocket Knife
Lenser Headlamp LED
AAA Batteries 3 LED
AA Batteries 2 GPS
Drink Bottle(s)

SafetyFirst Aid Kit
EPIRB (GME MT410G)
Maps (Maptoaster, printed off computer)
GPS (Garmin E-trexH)
GPS Waypoints downloaded from Maptoaster!
Compass
Survival Blanket
Matches

Snow/Ice/Bluffs (As Required)
Abseil Rope
Tape Rope (used as a harness)
Tape Ropes
Karabeners
Friction Device

Crampons
Ice Axe
Snow Stake

PersonalTooth Brush
Tooth Paste
Soap
Shampoo Sachets
Chap Stick
Sun Block
Insect Repellent
Toilet Paper

FoodSardines in Oil/Tuna 1 tin/day
Meat - Bacon, Sausages, Mince, Steak (optional)
Veges – Onion, Peppers, etc (optional)
Vegemite 115g
Peanut Butter
Salt & Pepper
Milk Powder 2 heaped spoons/day
Curry Powder
Muesli/Porridge 1 cup/day
Dehydrated Veges 100g
Continental Pasta 90g
Cuppa Soup 1 pkt
Rice Risotto 200g
Cous Cous
Muesli Bars 2-3/day
Juice Sachets
2min Noodles 85g
Vita Weat 250g 1 pkt/week
Cheese Slices 1 pkt/week
Tea 1 pkt 25/week
Trail Mix 50-100g/day
Energy Chocolate 250g

MiscellaneousCell Phone
Camera
Book (optional)
Pen and Notebook
Day Pack (optional)
Plastic Bags
Electrical Tape
Oddments of Rope
Bag Ties
Credit/Eftpos Cards

Crossings over 2000 Metres

2008-01-30T22:32:00.000-08:00

In order from North to South

Alma Col Two Thumb Range 2139m

Unnamed Pass Sibbald Range 2200m

Ailsa Pass Liebig Range 2190m

Ball Pass Mt Cook Range 2121m

Copeland Pass Southern Alps 2150m

Gladiator Hooker Range 2125m

Crossings of the Main Divide

2008-01-30T22:26:00.000-08:00

In order from North to South

Waiau Pass 1870m

Ada Pass 1008m

Lewis Pass 863m

Harper Pass 962m

Whitcombe Pass 1239m

Copeland Pass 2150m

Maori Saddle 1245m

Harris Saddle 1255m

Maps of St Arnaud to Cape Farewell

2008-01-30T21:45:00.000-08:00

St Arnaud to Cape Farewell 1_2M

St Arnaud to Owen River 262

Owen River to Trevor Carter Hut 262

Trevor Carter Hut To Flora 262

Flora to Lonely Lake 262

Loney Lake to Kaituna 262

Kaituna to Cape Farewell 262

Maps of St Arnaud to Aickens

2008-01-30T20:25:00.000-08:00

St Arnaud to Aickens 1_2M

St Arnaud to Blue Lake 262

Blue Lake to Ada Pass 262

Ada Pass to Boyle 262

Boyle to Harper Pass 262

Harper Pass to Aickens 262+

Maps of Aicken to Erewhon

2008-01-30T19:51:00.000-08:00

Aickens to Erewhon 1.1M

Aickens to Harman 262+

Harman to Hokitika Gorge 262+

Hokitika Gorge to Prices Flat 262+

Prices Flat to Rakaia 262+

Rakaia to Lawrence via Bulter Saddle 262+

Lawrence to Erewhon 262+

Maps of Erewhon to Haast

2008-01-28T14:19:00.000-08:00

Erewhon to Copeland SH6

SH6 Copeland to Haast Road

Erewhon to Rankin's Hut

Rankin's Hut to Copeland Pass

Copeland Pass to SH6

SH6 to Rubicon Biv

Rubicon Biv to Fraser Hut

Fraser Hut to Pleasant Flat

Flora Car Park to Cape Farewell (Jan 2007)

2008-01-28T00:53:00.000-08:00

Summary

Evening Flora Carpark to Flora Hut 2 kms

Day 1 Flora Hut to Saddle Waingaro Peak 9 hrs 30.5 kms

Day 2 Saddle Waingaro Peak to Lonely Lake Hut 5 hrs 8.5 kms

Day 3 Lonely Lake Hut to Adelaide Tarn 6.75 hrs 6.5 kms

Day 4 Adelaide Tarn to Boulder Lake 4.25 hrs 7.5 kms

Day 5 Boulder Lake to Kaituna Forks 8 hrs 34 kms

Day 6 Kaituna Forks to Ngaroa Farm Gate 8.5 hrs 27.5 kms

Day 7 Ngaroa Farm Gate to Puponga 7.5 hrs 18.5 kms

Day 8 Puponga to Collingwood 23.5 kms

Day 9 Day Walk at Collingwood

Diary

Wednesday 3rd (Evening)

Pam dropped me off at Flora car park at 2045 following. the Wednesday night 5km run, and I walk down the Flora hut for the night.

Thursday 4th (Day 1)

Away at 0745, arrived at Trilobite earlier than expected at 1215 via bullock track. Cooked lunch there, then carried on for a further 3 ½ hrs to Fenela hut. Had tea at Fennela and rested awhile. As the hut is rather full, I decided to camp at the tarn near the saddle below Waingaro Peak. The tarn turned out to be more like a small pool, but it was a lovely spot and the weather warm and calm. I even managed to get cell phone coverage. I am very pleased with progress today and hope to make the most of the settled weather.

Friday 5th (Day 2)

Away at 0800 and followed the well worn route to Lonely Lake hut. Easy going in the main and arrived at LL at 1300. It’s very hot and I decide to stay here tonight so spend the afternoon relaxing. Tomorrow will tackle the high sidle to Anatoki Peak in the cooler morning.

Saturday 6th (Day 3)

During the night I talked myself out of the high sidle, so did the low route instead. After seeing the bluffs later on, I didn’t regret the change. The high route is best done in the opposite direction. I vow the do it one day with company! Another fine day today. I get away at 0815 and arrive at Adelaide Tarn at 1500. I took a route down to the Anatoki River almost directly to pt744 from the saddle. I didn’t strike any bluffs and the going was pretty good. However when it came to the climb up to the saddle west of 1435, I ended up cutting up into the bluffy part of 1435, but managed to sidle below the worst of them. Lots of scratches on my arms and legs from bush bashing. A piece of foam mattress on the ground is testament to the fact that I am not the only one to have taken this route. It is nice to see Adelaide Tarn once again, this being my third visit. Some nice sized empty snail shells were seen today. For an evening stroll. I circle the tarn and climbed over Trident and Douglas peaks. A family of Keas entertained me enroute. I could see Farewell Spit in the distance and closer to hand the Dragons teeth, and Lead hills.

Sunday 7th (Day 4)

Rose at 0730 to misty drizzle and got away at 0845. Missed the track after descending from the needles eye, but regained it after backtracking and making sure I could see the next cairn from the one I was at. Whilst at the eye, it was eerily still and silent in the misty conditions. Weather warm and pleasant. I wasn’t sure where Green Saddle was so got out the GPS to guide me to it. It turned out I was only about 200m from it. Arrived at Boulder Lake at 1300. I would have had enough time to get to Bain ham but stayed the night at Boulder Lake in the hope that tomorrow will bring better visibility. Reading material in the hut referred to Appo’s creek/flat. Related to Appo Hocton? Also the oldest hut in NZ is Machine Hut in the Lyell 1890!

Monday 8th (Day 5)

Up at 0600 and it is still misty and drizzling, but when I left at 0730 the mist had lifted some what and the drizzle had stopped. I could actually see Boulder Lake from the hut! An easy hike out to the car park in 4 ½ hrs or 5hrs to the road end, then another hour to the Bainham store. Weather fine. I have a big spend up at Langford’s store. They don’t take EFTPOS so I arrange with Laura Langford for a cheque to be sent later. I buy baked beans, spaghetti, peaches, pears, krisbies, lemonade and a toothbrush and toothpaste. I cook up lunch at the store so I don’t have to carry all the weight I purchased. I clean my teeth for the first time in 5 days! Whilst there, I am surprised by the amount of traffic that stops here for photos and ice creams. Left Bainham at 1550, arrived at the Naked Possum at Kaituna after 1 ½ hrs. They do take EFTPOS so I buy a couple of beers, then head of for the Kaituna Forks where I make camp. The Rata is flowering prolifically, and the Nikaus look healthy due to the warm moist climate.

Tuesday 9th (Day 6)

Up at 0630 and away at 0830. Initial climb from the forks was steepish, but rest of the track gentle up and down. Kaituna track is very pleasant and varied, although mostly done in the rain or drizzle. Arrived at track end near Knuckle Hill at 1300 and walked out to the Wanganui inlet via an old logging road, arriving at 1345. Was intending to walk out to the Wairoa inlet, but I think this part of the track no longer exists. The next leg involved walking up the road to the Ngaroa junction, arriving at 1615. then arrived at the Ngaroa farm gate at about 1700. The Kaituna track is well worth doing, with subtropical bush and prolifically flowering rata at both ends of the track. I setup camp in light rain. The weather forecast for the next 24hrs is heavy rain. I will sleep in tomorrow if it does rain heavily. A neighbour kindly promised to ring the owners of Ngaroa farm to let them know I am coming. She tells me about the hassles they had with draining the Ngaroa swamp.

Wednesday 10th (Day 7)

It rained and blew thru the night, but luckily I placed the tent in a sheltered spot. The rained ceased at about 4 – 5am. So up at 0600 and packed up and away by 0800. There was nobody around at the Ngaroa farmhouse, so I carried on thru the farm. A lovely spot with nice native areas and outstanding geography, including Mt Lunar. No bush bashing required today and I stepped onto Wharariki Beach at 1015. I arrived at the most northern point of the South Island at 1210. Later I arrived at the more spectacular ‘official’ point of Cape Farewell. I estimate that my point is 55m more north than Cape Farewell! From here I walk the coastal track to the Puponga Farm visitors centre, arriving at 1500. I ordered a smoked chicken salad for lunch and a Monteith’s Black. (My first proper meal in 8 days and it was magnificent!) A short walk later saw me tenting at the Puponga motor camp where I enjoyed a hot shower. I decide that tomorrow I will walk the 23kms to Collingwood. Since Pam is not due until Saturday afternoon and I have time to kill. Unfortunately it is not possible to walk out to the lighthouse on Farewell Spit; otherwise I would have done it. You can walk for about 5kms though.

Thursday 11th (Day 8)

I’m on the road at 0930. I have a snack and cuppa at Pakawau before continuing to Collingwood. The day came out sunny so I stopped at the Collingwood cemetery for a late lunch and to dry out wet clothes. I book into the Collingwood motor camp for 2 nights. No more carrying a pack!

Friday 12th (Day 9)

Later in the morning I head off with my pack to climb to pt 518 at the end of Whakamarama Rd. I jog out to the road end and climb steeply to the top. As I am not carrying much water, I go no further than pt 518. I return the same way. I chat to some interesting characters at the motor camp and wonder about their backgrounds!

Saturday 13th (Day 10)

I decamp from the motor camp and walk up to the motel that Pam & I will stay in tonight. I leave my pack there and fill in the rest of the morning by walking along the Bainham road for about 6km, before returning to the motel. Pam arrives in the early evening and we dine at the old courthouse. Having now completed Cape Farewell to Erewhon Station, I am nearly ½ way!

St Arnaud to Flora Car Park (Dec 2006)

2008-01-28T00:51:00.000-08:00

Summary

Day 1 Mt Robert Carpark to Sabine Hut 6 hrs 18 kms

Day 2 Sabine Hut to Owen Junction 8 hrs 31.5 kms

Day 3 Owen Junction to Below Sunrise Peak 6.5 hrs 23 kms

Day 4 Below Sunrise Peak to Rolling Junction Hut 9.5 hrs 18 kms

Day 5 Rolling junction to Trevor Carter Hut 8.5 hrs 24 kms

Day 6 Trevor Carter Hut to Crow Hut 6.5 hrs 18 kms

Day 7 Crow Hut to Splugeons Shelter 7 hrs 18.5 kms

Day 8 Splugeons Shelter to Graham Valley 20 kms

Diary

Saturday 16th (Day 1)

Departed Mt Robert car park at 12:55 heading up the Robert ridge, taking the scenic route. However mist and drizzle closed in so that was the end of the view. Arrived at Angelus hut after 3-½ hrs. Quick snack and drink, then off to Sabine hut via Cedric. Spooked a buck chamois in the misty condition on ridge out to Cedric, and did the usual knee bashing dropping off Cedric. Arrived Sabine hut at 19:15, just as it started to rain lightly. 6 hours total walking time today.

Sunday 17th (Day 2)

Up at 06:00 and out the door at 07:45. The sign said 5 hrs to Rotoroa and that’s how long it took! The track is not very well maintained as most people take the boat now a days. Only 1 Robin was sighted near Rotoroa village! Rested and lunched at Rotoroa, then departed at 14:30. It took 2 hrs to reach the main road and a further hr to the picnic area just before Owen Junction. The road walk was hot and tiring, though the pace was fast. Tea was porterhouse steak and noodles, well earned and delicious.

Monday 18th (Day 3)

Slept in til 08:00 and got away at 09:45. It took 3:20 walking time to reach the Bulmer track car park, and what a pleasure it is to have the road walking behind me for now. Roads are fast but very monotonous. I have unfortunately developed a blister under my left foot but my shoulders and hips are getting used to the pack. Away again at 14:15 and it’s so nice to be walking a bush track. 3-¼ hrs later I arrive at the bush line below Sunrise peak. A steady rain sets in so I decide to make camp right here on the track on the only flat ground available. To supplement the meagre water that I have, I spread the fly out on the ground and collect about 1-½ litres of rainwater in 20 mins, which will be enough to get me to the top of Mt Owen tomorrow.
Tuesday 19th (Day 4)
A thick layer of leaf mulch ensured a comfortable nights rest, and the stars were shining brightly by the middle of the night. Arose at 06:00 and watched the sunrise as I cooked breakfast at 06:10. What a great spot to camp with the sunshine streaming into the tent and not a sandfly in sight! Headed off at 08:15 and arrived at Sunrise peak at 09:45. Weather fine and calm. Arrived Mt Owen at 11:45 after picking my way through the labyrinth of rocks. I dry out the gear while I lunch in the pleasant conditions. Away again at 12:45 and arrive at Granity Pass hut at 14:15. 3 women in the hut offer me hot water for a cuppa which I gladly accept. They had just done an up and back to Mt Owen prior to me coming over. Left Granity Pass at 15:00 and arrived at Courthouse flat at 17:45 following a steep descent down the ridge route and a 20min grunt up the staircase. Unfortunately I think I may have lost my little toenail on the descent. A quick feed and water and I’m off again to Rolling Junction hut where I stay the night sleeping on the floor. The phone wasn’t working so am unable to touch base with Pam. The evening is pleasant so I am able to dry out the tent in what remains of the evening.

Wednesday 20th (Day 5)

Slept surprisingly well on the floor but was woken about 11pm by the sound of my cup falling off the billy. I did not see who the culprit was. Away at 08:00, passed Kings Hut at 11:00 and stopped at the more interesting Cecil kings Hut for a cuppa and snack. I have struggled a bit this morning, as I am a still a bit jaded from yesterday’s effort. It starts to rain so I decide to rest and wait and see what the weather brings. I lay back on the mattress and dozed. The rain cleared so I left at 12:45 and arrived at Stone hut at 14:45. Feeling a lot better after the rest at Kings and since the weather looks reasonable with low cloud but blue sky visible above, I decide to carry on to Trevor Carter. Hut via Biggs Tops. I guessed it would take me 4hrs; in fact it took 3 1/2hrs. (50mins to saddle, 1 ½ total to bush line, ¾ across tops) I enjoyed the stands of mountain cabbage trees between the saddle and the bush line. It snowed lightly as I crossed the tops and I found the steep descent into the Karamea quite treacherous in the wet conditions, especially where the track follows beside the creek. A mother with 2 older children had a nice fire going at TC hut. I rinse my socks and dry them overnight over the heat of the fire. The mother reads aloud to her children from one of the Lord of the Rings trilogies.

Thursday 21st (Day 6)

Left TC at 0750, arrived Thor after 2-½ hrs. Left Thor at 1100, arrived Venus after 1 ¾ hrs. Left Venus at 1410, arrived Crow at 1620. This last section was slower as I am getting pain in my LHS inner quad. Walking on flat ground is ok but up or down is not good. A consequence of the previous steep descents of the last 2 days, no doubt. Hopefully an overnight rest will help it. Deer prints quite numerous in the Karamea and there’s not much of a lake left anymore at Apollo creek, as it is basically filled in. In a pool just short of Crow Hut, I spied 6 big trout cruising around. The weather is fine though cool. A few robins about but not a lot of birdsong. As I have arrived early, I spend some time gathering and chopping firewood for a nice fire. I boil lots of water and have a good wash, including socks.

Friday 22nd (Day 7)

Left Crow hut at 0825 and arrive at the Karamea Bend Hut at 1125. The birdsong is nice today, including a robin singing it’s heart out just above me at one of my rest stops. My quad is getting worse with the last hour very slow and torturous. The right leg is having to do all the work on the ups and downs. If there had have been a radio in the hut, I would have called DOC and asked them to relay a message to Pam to say that I will be an extra day. My destination is Splugeons shelter so I plod on , leaving Karamea Bend at 1300. I arrived at Splugeons at 1700. The flatter going along the Leslie has eased the pain in the quad and the smooth benched track up to Splugeons means that I am not having to step up very often. At one stop a friendly robin was within about 300mm of my hand, perched on my walking stick. As I am plodding along dragging my crook leg behind me, I think of the guy’s at work enjoying Xmas beers, but decide that I’m not missing anything at all. In fact I thing they are the one’s missing out. I even wonder whether I should become a tea-to taller, but I can’t see myself holding to it. What a pleasure it is to walk up the benched track to Splugeons Shelter. I wonder how many tracks are made like this now a days? A pleasant evening was had at Splugeons talking with an Alaskan couple. It was at least 11pm before I rolled over in my sleeping bag to sleep.

Saturday 23rd (Day 8)

The leg is a lot better today. I ring Pam from the Salisbury/Balloon junction and confirm a pickup time at the Graham Valley. I chat briefly to a couple there, and they kindly give me a piece of fruit. The lady is a physiotherapist and she tells me that I strained my such & such ligament in my knee. I stop at Salisbury hut where I meet a guy from Reefton who happened to work with my brother Jim in the MOW. The next stop was Flora hut. Here I chat with a guy who happens to be the bird curator at Te Papa. I am in no hurry so we talk at some length. Last night the Alaskan couple asked me how many native birds have become extinct since human colonisation. I didn’t know the answer but the Te Papa guy did. To date 54 species and or subspecies of land birds have. And of course, many of what are left are endangered. I make it down to the Graham Valley without aggravating my quad too much. I have just enough time to brew a cuppa before Pam arrives.

Aickens – Erewhon Station (Dec 2005)

2008-01-28T00:48:00.000-08:00

Summary

Day 1 Aickens to Hunts Creek Hut 5.25 hrs 13.5 kms

Day 2 Hunts Creek Hut to Julia Hut 10 hrs 12 kms

Day 3 Julia Hut to Harman Hut 10 hrs 13.5 kms

Day 4 Harman Hut to Camp Harman River 10 hrs 4 kms

Day 5 Camp Harman River to Crawford Junction Hut 10 hrs 8 kms

Day 6 Crawford Junction Hut to Adventure Bivvy 11 hrs 9 kms

Day 7 Adventure Bivvy to Cedar Flat Hut 2 hrs 2.5 kms

Day 8 Cedar Flat Hut to Hokitika Gorge 7 hrs 22.5 kms

Day 9 Hokitika Gorge to Prices Flat Hut 9 hrs 20.5 kms

Day 10 Prices Flat Hut to Neave Hut 7.75 hrs 9 kms

Day 11 Neave Hut to Louper Biv 6.75 hrs 12 kms

Day 12 Louper Biv to Lawrence Biv 9.5 hrs 15.5 kms

Day 13 Lawrence Biv to Erewhon Station 7 hrs 25 kms

Diary

Saturday 3rd (Day 1)

Drove down from Nelson, lunched at the Otira Hotel. Dined on fish, chips and salad with a pot of tea. The hotel is pretty run down and the pineapple pieces in the salad fizzy! Dropped off pack at Kelly’s Creek then drove back to Aicken (the end of last year’s walk) where Pam dropped me off at 1:45pm.
The first 4-5 kms travel without pack an easy walk along the road, but weather drizzly. Arrived at Kelly’s at 2:30pm, donned my pack (26kg) and headed up stream. The sign said 5hrs to Hunts Creek hut, but I arrived after 4½ hrs. It was a good job I started a ½ day earlier than planned because my original plan was to do Aicken to Julia hut in one long day! It rained all day and I was very damp when I arrived at the hut. Some of the food in the bottom of the pack got wet, including the rolled oats! The first part of Kelly’s basically follows the river, except at the first gorge where I had to sidle high, and in a couple of other places following a cut track. Upper Kelly’s follows cut bush track all the way to saddle, then sidles around the steep sided Hunts Creek until it opens up near the hut. Got wet to the crutch crossing a deep narrow ditch when passing through the saddle. The hut is a 4 bunker, especially cosy when it’s wet outside. However, no dry wood, so damp clothes will be put on in the morning. Mild weather. Tomorrow will head to Julia hut, wet or fine. I may not see tops tomorrow, so are thankful for having the GPS and waypoints to aid me in finding the saddle in Dry Creek.

Sunday 4th (Day 2)

Steady light rain all night and for the first 2hrs today, then on and off thereafter. Made porridge out of the damp portion of the oats. Left Hunts Creek Hut at 7:40am. The first part was slow going over big boulder scree, and then it was easy going up tussock flats. I had to use the GPS to confirm the position of the saddle. However, when I went to “ Go to nearest”, nothing came up! I hadn’t uploaded the waypoints from the computer, so I took shelter behind a large boulder and manually loaded in the required coordinates. The climb to the saddle was easier than I had expected with a good gut to follow to the top. Arrived on top after 4½ hrs, in mist, but the mist cleared from time to time to allow me to see where I needed to head. I dropped down a gut to get into Dry Creek but got stuck so had to climb back up and go up and over some bluffs, then dropped down loose scree. Very slow descend down Dry Creek to Taipo due to weight of pack and boulder hopping, but at least no bush bashing was required. It took 3½ hrs to reach the Taipo from the tops, and then a 2 hr walk up a good track to Julia Hut. Crossed my first 3-wire bridge on track to Julia. Arrived at Julia hut at 5:30pm, 10 hrs from Hunts Creek hut. I had met 3 people who had come from Harman Saddle, heading for the Mid Taipo hut. They said they couldn’t find the hot pools as they thought they were underwater due to the river being up slightly. Anyway, I headed off as soon as I arrived at Julia hut in search of the hot pools and much to my relief found them easily. 15min later, I had shovelled out a pool then soaked til 7pm in the lovely hot water. I got a pack full of dry wood from the old hut nearby and lit a fire to dry out wet clothes. The sun had come out for ¾ hr at 1:45, otherwise intermittent drizzle/light rain for the rest of the day. Will sleep well tonight. I wouldn’t mind a rest day tomorrow but will need to press on to Browning Pass/Harman Hut. It looks like Popes Pass has some snow on it, but I hope it is soft with the mild weather I am having.

Monday 5th (Day 3)

Nice to start with everything dry! Left Julia Hut at 8am. Although the track has been trimmed recently, it was still 3hrs to get up to the tussock flats. This section used to be a benched track! It is now hard going and I was wet through. Overcast with drizzle, although I thought I saw my shadow for 1 min. Overall the conditions were good until I was descending to Browning Pass. I arrived at Popes Pass at 2:15pm, then backtracked and climbed up a snow chute SW of pass and crossed under Mt Harman. Going not technical but didn’t arrive at the top till 3:30pm. Misted in on the Browning side so needed compass to get direction. It started blowing with cold rain, so for the first time this trip I got cold hands. Ended up slightly west of the lake and since the conditions weren’t pleasant, I didn’t bother going to the lake but cut down to where I could see the main track crossing the Arahura. Arrived wet at Harman hut at 6:10pm. All up, 10hrs 10mins. After 2 10 hr plus days in a row, I am feeling rather tired. Harman Hut has some dry wood so will get a fire going to dry clothes etc. Tea was bacon & rice risotto.

Tuesday 6th (Day 4)

Woke at 6am and I could see the tops out both windows, so the weather must be clearing. It had rained during the night and was drizzling in the morn. Got up for a pee but went back to bed, as I was still tired. Slept a bit more and finally rose at 8am. Went for a walk down to the Harman swing bridge to look at the river and take some photos. The drizzle had finished but it remained overcast. Left the hut at 10:20am and was in the river above the gorge 1 hr later. I climbed up to a rocky knoll above the hut and then did a very steep but short bush bash/slide down to the river. Another 2 hours and I was at the base of the snow chute that I needed to climb up. I climbed up the main chute, and then headed up the main gut at the top of the snow. Slowly the going got steeper and steeper until I could go no further. I got the GPS out and found that I was 200m N of the saddle I was heading for. I could not climb back down with my pack on, so I had to lower the pack down with a rope, and then climb down after it. Had just got down onto the top of a snow chute when I stumbled and slid about 10m. It happened so quickly it was all over in an instant. I had my walking stick with me and had planned to use it to self-arrest. However it was not strapped to me and it got left sticking up where I tripped. Luckily the snow sloped sideways as well as down, so I slid off to the side and came to rest against the side of a hole where the snow had melted through. No damage was done but what a wakeup call! If the snow had not sloped sideways, I would have gone straight down about 50m and slammed into rocks at the bottom. I climbed back down to where a small gut came in from the side and proceeded up to where the saddle should be. However, I got bluffed up there also, so had to climb back down lowering the pack on the rope as before. Before I got back into the main gut I slid about 5m on some steep smooth snow grass. The dilemma I now had was; how was I going to climb back down the main snow chute that I had come up earlier? It was steep, about 120m long and had sheer rock sides so I couldn’t get around it. After the earlier incident, I knew that if I slipped here, it would be all over for me! I therefore decided to descend backwards using the walking stick as a third leg in front of me. I would move one limb at a time, kicking my boot into the snow several times to ensure that I had secure footing before moving the next foot. When both feet were secure, I would reposition the walking stick by stabbing it into the snow. It took me over an hour to descend down that snow chute but I made sure I took as much time as I needed. Going down backwards meant it took 3 times as many steps than when I went up. Why didn’t I have crampons and an ice axe??? I dropped back down to a flat spot near the Harman River and set up the tent. Arrived there at 8:30pm but only 2 hrs from where I had started out this morning. 8 hrs wasted in another 10 hr day, but hopefully valuable lessons learned? I had an easy tea of backcountry cuisine; cup of tea and then it was into bed.

Wednesday 7th (Day 5)

Sunny at last! My new Hubber tent was good. I had set it up on the edge of a mossy swamp. (Only flat smooth site I could find) No dampness came through the floor though, and it was very soft. Left at 9am for the other obvious saddle shown on the map. (South of the one attempted yesterday) and was at the top at 11:30am. Hard climb but not technical and was able to climb up the edge of some packed snow. There was one small tricky bit just before the top where I had to clamber over the top of a pile of potentially loose rock. The Crawford side was much easier but I had to bush bash for ½ hr to drop down to the river and arrived at the Crawford bivvy at 2pm. Nice bivvy, had a late lunch and cuppa. Last person signed in there was on 1/11/05! It took 1 ½ hrs to drop down to the Top Crawford hut. The track down the Crawford has recently been cut properly which is a nice change, but it’s still typical rough west coast track. A further 2 hrs should have seen me at Crawford Junction hut, but I crossed over the swing bridge to the west side 10mins above the junction, so I found myself on the wrong side of the river. DOC west coast isn’t strong on signage! Not knowing what the river crossing was like at the junction, I backtracked and arrived at the hut at 7pm. (4 hrs from bivvy) Another long day but did spend 1 hr at the bivvy. So here I am at Crawford Junction, 1 day later than intended. However, from here to Rakaia I will be following tracks or marked routes. I have had 4 ½ days of hard walking so far, but at least the pack is getting lighter and my shoulders are toughening up. The old junction hut in front of the present hut has recently been demolished and burnt but there is still a lot of sheet metal and nails lying around. The firebox in the hut was out of action so I lit a nice fire outside and enjoyed the evening and warmth.

Thursday 8th (Day 6)

Another wet drizzly day with a couple of brighter periods. Left the junction at 8:45am. Arrived at the swing bridge to Kokotahi hut 3¼ hrs later, snacked, then carried on to Kokotahi bivvy, arriving at 2:10pm. Out of 5 hrs walking, 3 hrs was boulder hopping up the river and the last 1 ½ hrs was better on bush track. Going was very slow for the distance travelled, but not strenuous, though hard on the legs and ankles. The Kokotahi bivvy is derelict but still a nice place to lunch, especially as the weather was drizzly. Also known as candle hut as inside was a galv drum full of candles from the NZFS days. The going up the creek to Zit saddle was easy. Before arriving at the saddle, I cut north per details obtained on remotehuts.co.nz. Even with a GPS I still managed to stray too far SW and had to backtrack to get back on track. Luckily I had not dropped down too far down the Zit creek side before I realised my error, but I can see how many others would have got themselves bluffed in Zit creek. Left Kokotahi bivvy at 3:30pm and arrived at Adventure Bivvy at 7:50pm. I was too tired to carry onto Cedar Flat hut, so am staying here tonight. It’s a small one bunk, low roofed bivvy with a water tank. But it’s dry and cosy. Weather misty and drizzly and my clothes are quite damp. There is a lot of weka about and they call quite frequently. Lilies are everywhere and are flowering. I didn’t see Spaniard grass until Harman River where they are very small. Here in the Toaroha catchment, they are larger, more like you see in Nelson Lakes. The body is sore so am hoping for a good sleep tonight. Just because a track is shown on a map does not mean the going is easier! The pack is lighter now, but in future I’m thinking of leaving more gear behind, but what can I do without? Dry clothes!

Friday 9th (Day 7)

Rained through the night and all morning. I rose at 10am. Every part of me is sore from the shoulders down! The hut book at Adventure bivvy goes back to 1984! Only 6 Nelson region people noted in the hut book in that time. Apparently the hot pools at Wren creek are still there, so I intend to hike down to Cedar Flat in the afternoon and stop the night there. It shouldn’t take more than 2 hrs.
It was still drizzling when I left Adventure bivvy at 1:30pm. It’s a steep descent down Adventure ridge to the Toaroha River with a flat section ½ way down. Arrived at the river at 3pm and arrived at Cedar flat at 3:30pm. The Toaroha was running dirty due to the rain. There are 2 huts at Cedar flat, one historic and one newer. I stayed in the newer one, which should be rat proof. Cedar flat is aptly named as the tussock flat is surrounded by mountain cedar (Kaikawaka). I went up and checked out the hot pools only 15mins away. They weren’t very warm due to the rain causing surface water to dilute the hot spring water, so I didn’t get in. Got a fire going in the hut to dry out clothes, found a nice plate so I had a “proper” meal. (Pasta, green beans, tuna for main and dried apricots for dessert) The sun came out when I arrived at Cedar Flat and the sky is still blue at 9pm, so I am hoping for a fine day tomorrow for a change. One Whio (blue duck) seen in the Toaroha, and I also saw one just below the Crawford bivvy a couple of days ago. Today has been a rest day with only a 2hr walk. I am now 2 days behind schedule, so I will walk out to the road end tomorrow, then road walk to the Hokitika Gorge. That should then put me 1 day ahead of schedule for the Whitcombe leg of the trip. However I won’t get to see the upper Toaroha, Mungo and Frew saddle. Maybe another time though?
Sandflies have not been a big problem until now. Somehow they are getting into the hut through the mesh screens?

Saturday 10th (Day 8)

It has been a beautifully fine and warm day today. It took 3 hrs to walk to the road end, and then I crossed the river and cut across paddocks to link up to the road leading toward the gorge. Luckily the river had dropped from the day before. I got permission to cross another property so I was able to take the most direct route. I imposed myself on a farmer’s wife at a farmhouse, to use the phone. No answer at home so I rang Peter Hutton’s 0800 number and made contact through him to Pam. Also requested that an ice axe and crampons be brought to Christchurch for the Alma Col part of the journey. I arrived at my food drop spot at 3:30pm, so it had taken about 7 hrs from Cedar Flat. I set up camp near here in a small clearing with water only metres away. Set up a clothesline and dried and aired clothes etc. Weather forecast is fine for the next 4 days so that should get me at least over Butler saddle? I ran into a couple of people on my way out of the Toaroha, the first people seen since the Taipo. I sorted out my food and supplies for the next leg, and then I rehung the surplus back in a tree for later pickup. Tea was canned beans and sausages, followed by fruit salad.

Sunday 11th (Day 9)

The day was fine and warm, although it started with heavy dew. Left the locked gate at 8:45am for the 2 hr walk to Rapid Creek hut. Lex Sutherland’s book published in the late 60’s stated that the track followed the true right all the way to the hut. Therefore I did not cross the 2nd of 2 cable carriages on the way and lost 15mins before I spied a track marker across the river. So I backtracked and found the hut not far up the river from the cable carriage. Met a couple of young hunters in for a 2-day weekend from Christchurch. Had a cuppa and long chat with them before heading of at noon for the 3hr walk to Frew hut. I got to the Frew junction in 3hrs but somehow missed the hut. It appears to have been relocated? The track markings leave a little to be desired. Carried on for another ½ hr before stopping for a late lunch. Off again at 4:30pm for the expected 2½ hrs to Prices Flat hut. It actually took 3½ hrs due to numerous active slips in the last 2kms of the gorge below Prices Flat. All up it was 4hrs from Frew to Prices. Total walking time for the day 9hrs, as I missed the new Prices Flat hut as well and had to backtrack. (No sign indicating, “Hut this way” but a sign indicating “track splits 2 ways”. I took the wrong way!). Saw a deer on the track between the old and new huts. Actually 2 hind legs and a bum as an animal meandered off the track. The Hokitika/Whitcombe catchment is the only area so far to show deer sign. Actually there are more deer prints than human on this track. The last person to stay at Prices Flat was exactly 1 month ago. This route is not as popular as I had expected. The track to Rapid Creek was a combination of benched track and riverbed. Rapid to Frew, mostly riverbed; Frew to Prices, it starts off good with good benched track, terraces, some better riverbeds, but then gets really hard going through the slips. There were lots of thistles and nettle. I grabbed a nettle bush for support at one stage and am still getting tingling in my hand and arm. Not nice! I have a fire going to dry out wet socks and leggings, and to burn up rubbish. Why was the Whitcombe not named the Hokitika? It seems to be the main feeder of the glaciated water and carries more volume. However I did not get to see the upper Hokitika and Mungo rivers. I presume that the Wilkinson will be the source of the glaciated water off Mt Evans. Tea was rice risotto with tinned tuna found in the hut. It’s now 11:15pm, one more cup of tea and then it’s bedtime. Will not need to be up too early as tomorrow’s walk should be 2 3hr sections. There are mouse droppings in the hut so food will be hung tonight.

Monday 12th (Day 10)

It came in overcast last night with some drizzle throughout the night. It stayed overcast all day, but with only a few light spots of rain. Most of the day was warm and bright. I left Prices Flat at about 9am, crossed the swing bridge and climbed up the vertical bank again (DOC has a rope hanging down) and expected to be at Wilkinson hut turnoff at noon. However the going was slow, mainly due to trees across track and not so much caused by slips as yesterday. I even got the GPS out to find out how far I had got and eventually arrived at the turnoff after 4¾ hrs. I didn’t go down to the hut in case the next leg was similarly slow. Stopped for lunch on the track and was away again by 3pm. The track was much better from Wilkinson and arrived at Neave hut at 4:45pm. What a nice change to arrive at a hut this early. The views of Mt Evans, the Wilkinson glacier and bluffs were awesome. I hope my pictures turn out OK. Took a picture of 2 Whio today. Saw a fantail today, which reminded me that it was the only one I have seen! In fact I haven’t seen any robins either. Is it because of the bush, weather or 1080? Some kind person had left a book in the hut, which was of Louper’s account of the first European attempt to find a route over the Whitcombe pass to the West Coast. They both managed to get to the coast but Whitcombe drowned crossing the Taramakau. They were near starvation. A very interesting read.

Tuesday 13th (Day 11)

Another overcast and warm day. Some drizzle at the pass but cleared again. Tops partially misted so will have to see how the pictures come out. It took 3¾ hrs to climb to the Whitcombe pass, which is nothing more than a gravel pile. Most of the route to there and down the eastern side was riverbed travel though easier on the east. Even had some tussock travel, which doesn’t happen on the west. The downward leg took 3hrs to Lauper bivvy and arrived at 3:45pm. The hut book had indicated Lauper to Neave 5-6hrs. I think a heavier pack than most have really slowed me up when one is clambering over rocks all the time. A blister on the outer left ankle giving some grief, mostly caused by travelling up the true right of the Whitcombe and always using the inside edge of my boots clambering over thousands of river boulders of varying sizes. Lauper bivvy is very basic, but it does have an open fire and there is plenty of dry wood about. Got a lovely fire going. The challenge tomorrow will be to get across the Rakaia River, especially as it’s running very milky. It has two tributaries, being fed by the Ramsay and Lyell glaciers. The tops are misted in on the Jollies range so I can’t see Butler saddle. There is no memorial to Whitcombe at the saddle, which surprised me. It’s now 7pm. I will relax and enjoy the fire. The sandflies are really thick.

Wednesday 14th (Day 12)

It’s been a great day today, the best so far this trip. Left Lauper bivvy at 8:30am, I walked across the Rakaia riverbed toward Reischek hut. (The riverbed is 1.3km wide here) Couldn’t cross the river here due to slippery boulders, depth and speed of flow, so I headed upstream. Just managed to cross the Ramsay tributary but in hindsight, probably shouldn’t have. I really had to lean heavily on my walking stick. The main flow at this point was less than 2m wide but swift and waist deep. As I exited I slipped on a slime-covered boulder and arsed up, so I got completely wet. I probably should have crossed at the outlet of the glacier lake, though it probably would have been slippery?
Carried on up to the Lyell tributary and missed or did not see the swing bridge shown on the map. Managed to cross just after Meins Knob, but lower down than the Lyell hut. I found a spot where there was a deep pool so the current was minimal but it was chest deep. Wet again! From here I started to climb toward Butler saddle. Luckily, only a very short bush bash was required before getting onto easier tussock. I followed the main spur up until above Lyell hut, and then I started a sidle around toward Butler saddle. Came to a bluffed creek, so I had to follow it straight up. Going was good though, yeah no boulders! I wasn’t sure whether I would be able to cross this creek until I got to the main ridge. Luckily just before the top, a basin appeared above a waterfall, so I was able to sidle around to the saddle. Saddle was 1800m; the river was 600m. It had taken 2 hrs to cross the Rakaia, then 5¼ hrs to the saddle. Arrived at 3:45pm. What a contrast the Lawrence side is, practically all scree. The first 10-15mins was loose scree so I made the most of that and dropped quite quickly. Then it was back to the monotonous slow unmoveable stuff. It took 2 hours to drop down to the Lawrence River, and then it was a 15min hike to the Lawrence bivvy. The bottom part of the stream had a small gorge, so had to sidle around it, otherwise I just followed the stream out. I saw 3 dead tahr today, so some culling has occurred recently. Arrived at the bivvy at 6pm. The bivvy is very small, the door the smallest seen so far, but cosy and well provisioned. The result of being used by hunters no doubt. (Lots of empty 270 shells lined up on the dwangs) I was well provisioned myself so didn’t need anything, except I did top up my fuel bottle. The best part today was being able to walk on snowgrass instead of continual boulder hopping. The weather was mild and mostly sunny. I may only go to Lawrence hut tomorrow as I have a day up my sleeve. My ankles are also causing some concern, as the tendons are very sore. A nice waterfall tumbles out of a basin behind the bivvy.

Thursday 15th (Day 13)

10 days to Xmas! I slept in a bit this morning and didn’t leave the bivvy until 9:30am. Ankles are very sore when walking on uneven surfaces, but much better when I picked up the rolled surface of the 4wd tracks. Didn’t see either the Hermitage or Lawrence huts on the way out, so carried on down to the Clyde junction where there was a station hut but no water outside. Got there at 1:15pm. A quick bite to eat, then I carried on to Erewhon Station. As I neared Erewhon I realised that the combined flow of the Clyde and Lawrence rivers made it impossible to cross the main channel, so I had to back track 1 km to a point where the main channel braided. No problem crossing here. Arrived at the station house about 4:30pm and was invited by the cook to have tea with the owner and staff. The mutton and pudding were fantastic. I have set up camp on the lawn in front of the old disused homestead and strung a clothesline along the veranda. The lawn is so fine and soft that I can be assured of a comfortable sleep. The homestead is surrounded by all sorts of introduced trees; flowering cherries etc. The air is full of bird song. I cannot wait to hear what they will sound like at dawn. I am also looking forward to sleeping in, tomorrow morning. I have decided not to continue on with the third leg of the journey at this time so will finish it here. My ankles are very swollen and it would not be enjoyable to continue. Chris is due to pick me up tomorrow evening. No sandflies here but lots of sheep though you wouldn’t know it, the country is so vast!

Friday 16th (Day 14)

The weather once again warm and sunny and the birds started singing well before first light. Slept in, enjoyed breakfast sitting on the veranda in the sun, and socialised with Annette and Bryan, the cook and handyman. Took morning tea up to a guy working a paddock with a team of Clydesdales. He was down from the Waiarapa and is involved with the Clydesdale association along with the station manager and Fergus O’Connor of Nelson who he knows well. Filled in part of the afternoon climbing up onto a low knob to have a look around. Great without a pack on! Chris and Brian H arrived from Christchurch at about 5:30pm to pick me up. It took 2½ hrs to drive back to Christchurch. Pete and Ellie had kindly waited for me to arrive before we had dinner together. Tomorrow night, Pete is to celebrate his 50th birthday. I am a lot thinner than when I started out, having lost 4-5 kgs.

St Arnaud – Aickens (Dec 2004)

2008-01-28T00:42:00.000-08:00

Summary

1st Evening Kerr Bay to Lakehead Hut 2.5 hrs 9 kms

Day 1 Lakehead Hut to West Sabine Hut 11 hrs 26 kms

Day 2 West Sabine Hut to Caroline Bivvy 10.5 hrs 20.5 kms

Day 3 Caroline Bivvy to Christopher Hut 8 hrs 29 kms

Day 4 Christopher Hut to Ada Hut 2.5 hrs 18.5 kms

Day 5 Ada Hut to Brass Monkey Bivvy 7.25 hrs 21 kms

Day 6 Brass Monkey Bivvy to Lucretia Hut 3 hrs 4 kms

Day 7 Lucretia Hut to Sylvia Flat 4 hrs 13 kms

Day 8 Sylvia Flat to Hope-Kiwi Lodge 7.5 hrs 28.5 kms

Day 9 Rest Day, Day Walk

Day 10 Hope-Kiwi Lodge to Hurunui No.3 Hut 8.5 hrs 29 kms

Day 11 Hurunui No.3 Hut to Loche Stream Hut 8.5 hrs 14.5 kms

Day 12 Loche Stream Hut to Kiwi Hut 2 hrs 8.5 kms

Day 13 Kiwi Hut to Aickens Railway Siding 8 hrs 20 kms

The Diary

Friday 10th (Day ½)

Pam dropped me off at Kerr Bay after work. I threw the pack on and headed up the track to Lakehead Hut at 8:30pm. Due to the weight of the pack, I have left behind the tent and am just carrying a fly. It still weighs 25/26kg! The plan is to walk in the dark tonight so I can get a head start tomorrow. ½ way up the lake, as it’s starting to darken in the bush, I hear someone up ahead calling “help me”. From where I am, it sounds like a guy to my right down on the lakeside. I keep walking and determine that the guy is ahead of me as he is still calling out. Prior to hearing this guy, I had passed another bloke who had told me that he had a companion who was very slow, and had got sick of waiting for him. I arrived just as it was getting properly dark to the place where this guy was calling out. He was a young American chap and other bloke’s companion, who didn’t have a torch! He could see the lights of St Arnaud down the lakeside. Well I didn’t have a torch that I could spare and his mate was getting further away by the minute. He had no other gear, so I decided that I had no choice but to drop my pack and walk him out to Kerr Bay. It would mean that it would be very late before I got to Lakehead. I started walking this guy out, and boy he was slow! Luckily for me, after going for 10-15mins, his companion turned up and I was pleased to be rid of them and continue on my way. I think I got to Lakehead Hut at about 11pm and jumped straight in the sack. There was one other fisherman in the hut.

Saturday 11th (Day 1)

Departed Lakehead hut at 8:30am,arrived at Hopeless Creek after 2hrs and then it was another 1hr to John Tait hut. Lunched at John Tait, then it was another 2hrs to Upper Travers hut. The heavy snow this winter has caused avalanche damage to the bush below Upper Travers. The track has had to be rerouted around the fallen bush. The old Upper Travers hut has been removed and replaced by a large sterile people mover! I had no desire to stay here so after a quick snack, I headed off for West Sabine hut. I wasn’t sure how long it was going to take, but was expecting up to 5hrs. It took 1 ½ hrs to reach Travers Saddle and a further 2 ½ hrs to reach West Sabine hut. The steep descent off the saddle caused some pain in my knees. Not good on day 1 of a 14 day walk! Arrived at hut at 7:30pm. The hut was quite full and included a group of Adventurer scouts. I had a long chat with the leaders, whom it turned out were hunters who had similarly spent time on Stewart Island. Weather fine and cool. There is a lot of snow about the tops.

Sunday 12th (Day 2)

Departed hut at 8:20am, crossed the river opposite the hut and headed for Blue Lake Hut. There is much avalanche damage on this section of the track. The creek that one normally crosses before the climb to Blue Lake is completely covered in avalanche snow. What a contrast to my other visits to this area. Arrived Blue Lake after 2-¼ hrs. The weather forecast for the next 24hrs was good, so I decided to cross Waiau Pass today. I met up with the scout group here, as they had left earlier than I. They had seen a nice stag in the scrub on top of the bluffs above Blue Lake. Departed Blue Lake at 11:25am and arrived at the pass after 3 ½ hrs. I sidled around the bluffs on the western side of Lake Constance and was surprised at how high I had to climb. The climb to the saddle is straight forward though steep. I took lots of photos before heading down the Waiau side. I could not see any track markers leading down, so I made my own way until picking up the route further down. There is a lot of snow about and no sign of Lake Thompson. I decided that it would not be safe to climb Thompson Pass in these conditions, so I will head down the Waiau to Caroline Bivvy. Stopped at 5pm beside the creek below Waiau pass and brewed up. Whilst there, I caught a glimpse of a chamois crossing the snow above me. Arrived at Caroline Bivvy at 7pm. On the flat just above the bivvy, watched a deer out feeding until I spooked it. 3 people were camped at Caroline, but no one was in the bivvy, so I had it to myself. They were heading for Waiau Pass and were pleased to know that I had come through it. Their intention was to tackle the 3 tarns pass back at Ada Hut and cross into the West Matakitaki. However they did not like the conditions on the pass.

Monday 13th (Day 3)

Departed Caroline Bivvy at 9:15am. Stopped at 12:30pm for lunch. It was a monotonous walk down the river flats. I got the GPS out and found that the Lake Guyon Hut was only 2.8kms away, so I headed that way after lunch. (I had left my maps behind because I had put them in my tent bag, which I left at home. Luckily I had preloaded all the waypoints into the GPS) Lake Guyon hut was full of hunters gear, but I made use of the long drop before heading off again. It’s a nice setting at Lake Guyon and it would have been a good spot to stop. I next planned to spend the night at the old cullers hut past Christopher Hut, but when I got to Christopher, I was that tired, I decided to stop there. The hut was empty when I arrived at 5:15pm. I have come along way in 3 days. A dad and son from Wellington arrived a little later. During the night, a mouse had got into my pack liner. What a noise they make!

Tuesday 14th (Day 4)

I left Christopher Hut at 9:30am and arrived at Ada Hut at noon. I plan to stay here tonight so I won’t need to carry the heavy pack any more today. I had some lunch, and then headed off with a daypack for 3-tarn pass, which I reached easily after 2-¾ hrs. Without a heavy pack on, one feels like one is floating on air! It took 1 ½ hrs to return to Ada Hut. Weather fine and clear. What an enjoyable afternoon I have had. I will be sharing the hut tonight with 2 DOC workers. I got a weather forecast from them predicting that Thursday will be wet. Therefore, I will head for Lucretia/Brass Monkey tomorrow.

Wednesday 15th (Day 5)

I departed Ada at 8:10 and marched straight to Lewis Pass. Arrived after 2¾ hrs. Stopped for an early lunch, and then headed for the Lewis tops at 12:15pm. It took 1hr to get to the bush line and 7¼ hrs total to Brass Monkey Bivvy. I managed to get cell phone coverage off Springs Junction, so I made contact with Mum Ching to say that all is well. I got the GPS out to find the direction to Brass Monkey, and looked over in that direction and saw the orange colour in the distance. It started drizzling within 30 mins of arriving and the mist rolled in, but I am warm and snug inside. Some kind person had left behind Backcountry Cuisine, so that was tea. I read Hilary’s account of his Everest climb.

Thursday 16th (Day 6)

I woke to rain and wind, so I spent the time reading FMC mags. An interesting article about river crossing and riding your pack if you get swept away. I left the bivvy at 1:30pm and although it was still raining and blowing, I wanted to get to Lucretia today, and although it is only 3km away as the crow fly, it does involve climbing up to pt1602 and a bluffy descent into Lucretia Stream. The weather cleared as I started my descent down a creek east of pt1602. Going was OK except for one small section where I had to climb down a bluff to bypass a waterfall. The bluff had trees on it luckily. The head of the valley is very bluffed. Arrived at Lucretia Hut at 4:30pm. I love these old bivvies with their open fireplaces.

Friday 17th (Day 7)

It drizzled and rained through the night, although not heavily. The creek was up a little. I left the hut at 11:15am, and followed the track on the true right of the stream. About ½ way down I had to cross to the true left, and although the creek was carrying a lot more water than back at the hut, the crossing turned out to be OK. What with the drizzle and wet bush, it was good that I had my waterproofs on. Some water got into the bottom of the pack but it didn’t cause any problems. A lot of broadleaf beside the track, so I assume animal numbers are low in the area. Some sign of Chamois on the tops. I arrived at Palmer Lodge (NZDA) at about 2:30pm, had lunch and walked for ½ an hour down the main road down to Sylvia Flat hot pool. I spent 2 hours soaking, before leaving my pack there and heading off to the Boyle to see if my food parcel had arrived. (Pam had put it on a Nelson to Christchurch minibus this same day.) As no one was about at the outdoor education centre, I returned to Sylvia Flat and setup my fly camp and had tea. Then it was back to the hot pools for another hour before I retired to bed.

Saturday 18th (Day 8)

I got up at 8:00am to find snow on the surrounding hills down to 800m and drizzly rain. I had been warm in the sleeping bag, but it was soaking wet on the outside due to condensation. I had made the mistake of sleeping inside my plastic survival bag! I packed up the damp gear and headed off to the Outdoor Centre, arriving at 9:00am. Bill the caretaker was there when I arrived, so sorted out my supplies and had breakfast. (Yeah, toast!) I chatted with Bill, tried to contact Pam, but got no answer so Bill promised to ring in the evening. I departed at 12:15pm, walked 8km down the road and crossed the bridge leading to the Hope – Kiwi track. I arrived at the half way shelter at 4:30pm and 1 ¾ hrs later at the Hope-Kiwi Lodge. The rained had eased in the afternoon and although damp, I was warm. The Hope-Kiwi Lodge is built like a school lodge, 2 big bunkrooms, large tables and bench space, meat safe and stacks of dry firewood for the large space heater. I spent time washing and drying my clothes and gear. Tea included meat and fruit. (No wonder the pack was heavy again) It is now 11:45pm, so it’s time to brush my teeth and go to bed. Tomorrow, I might take a daypack and go exploring on the tops. I need to spend another night here to eat some weight out of the pack! The stars are shining brightly outside.

Sunday 19th (Day 9)

A late start today, had breakfast at 10:00am. Weather fine and sunny. I departed at 11:15am with a daypack and climbed east to pt1387, and then to pt1604, before returning via pt1555. I didn’t get to Mt Emmerson, as it was blowing and cold up higher. It took 3 ¼ hrs to get to 1700m, and I arrived but at the lodge at 4:00pm. Nice walk though and I got some good pictures of the surrounding country, including Lake Sumner and Harper Pass. Not long after I arrived back, a squall of rain came through and the wind picked up again. Late lunch was scrambled eggs and toast. Tea will be steak. I shampooed my hair and it feels great. I have been the only person here, not bad for a place that accommodates 24 people.

Monday 20th (Day 10)

I departed Hope-Kiwi Hut at 9:30am and arrived at the Hurunui Hut after 4-¾ hrs. I did side trips into Lake Marion (1/2hr) and the lookout (5 mins). I also walked around in circles for a few mins trying to find the track at 3 Mile stream. (The swing bridge had been removed) I also missed the swing bridge over the Hurunui River, so ended up crossing it above Hurunui Hut and approaching it from behind. I had a 1hr lunch break there, and then walked for 1hr up to the hot pool. The pool is right beside the track and has a concrete edging around it to increase the depth. There is room for 2 people lying down. I spent 1 ½ hrs in the pools, and was then going to setup camp there. However, it started spitting at 6:30pm, so I decided to carry on to Hurunui No.3 Hut. I left the pools at 7pm and arrived at No.3 hut just after 8:00pm. The place had 9 people in it, the first to have people in it since Ada Hut. They were 2 families from Christchurh who were heading to the Boyle for Xmas.

Tuesday 21st (Day 11)

I was up for breakfast at 8:00am, and then I went for a walk across the river flat to have a look at a waterfall that I had heard roaring throughout the night. I got damp in the process but it was worth the look. I returned to the hut for a cuppa and read whilst waiting for the rain to ease off. I was pleased that I had decided to stay in the hut as it had rained steadily all night. I eventually left the hut at 12:15pm in light rain, and arrived at the Harper Bivvy at 2:30pm where I lunched in the dry. It then took me 35mins to reach Harper Pass. The descent down into the Taramakau was reasonably steep in places. I arrived at Locke Stream Hut after 2-¼ hrs. Loche Stream hut is a lovely hut that was built in1940 out of timber milled at the site and trimmed with an adze. DOC has subsequently restored it since then. There is plenty of firewood and a lovely open fireplace so I’ll be lighting a fire and boiling lots of hot water and drying clothes etc.

Wednesday 22nd (Day 12)

I have time up my sleeve, so I have made it a short walking day. I left Locke at 10:35am and walked to Kiwi Hut in 2hrs after crossing the Taramakau 3 times. I lunched at Kiwi Hut, and whilst there, decided to stay the night so I could spend the day cleaning up. Kiwi Hut must be on DOC’s “no maintenance” list, as it appears to be very neglected. I’m hoping that if people find it clean and tidy, they may keep it that way? The place has an open fireplace, and dry firewood. So that is what I did, as well as stock the wood shed. The day remained cloudy and misty, with occasional light rain. Just before dark, I went down to the river flats to see if I could see any animals about. None showed. No mountains have been visible since crossing the main divide.

Thursday 23rd (Day 13)

I left Kiwi Hut at 10:30 and walked up the Otehake River to the gorge. On the way, I said gidday to a couple of young hunters camped on the lower flat. At the gorge I climbed a track up the spur on the true right, thinking initially that it sidled pass the gorge. However it continued climbing so I realised it was not the route to the hot pools. I did however get a good view looking down on Lake Kaurapataka. I dropped back down to the river and walked up through the gorge. The last river crossing at the top of the gorge was waist deep and fairly swift. About my limit I would think, but the wash out was OK so it wouldn’t have mattered if I did get swept downstream. I arrived at the hot springs at 1:30pm. The springs are in the middle of a dry riverbed, the water was lovely and warm and crystal clear. They are the best springs I have been in to date and no one else was about. The large pool was warm, and there was a smaller hotter one. I soaked for 2-½ hrs, lunched and then headed off at 5:30pm. I returned via the track on the true left that sidled through the gorge and arrived at the head of Lake Kaurapataka after 1hr. It was another 1 ½ hrs to the Taramakau flats and a further 1hr to the track end. I passed through an area of large beech trees beside Lake Kaurapataka. Out on the river flats, the track was very swampy in places and not well marked. I decided to cross the Otira River today in case it rains heavily tonight and becomes uncrossible. There is a basic shelter on the east side of the Otira river, but nothing at the car park. I walked up the road and stopped the night at the old Aickens railway siding. The place is half rotted away but it did provide a dry place to sleep. Unfortunately it was only 3m from the track, so when a train passed, the whole place shook with a thunderous noise.

Friday 24th (Day 14)

Not much sleep was had last night. There must have been a train every couple of hours. I walked back down to the track car park and waited for the bus. Chris is coming over on the same bus today. The day is still overcast, but the sun did briefly show it's self. That is the first time I have seen the sun since the Hurunui hot pools. The bus duly arrived, I settled into the only seat left, and it was off to Hokitika to meet up with Pam and Phillip, and to enjoy lunch and a beer. We will all then head off to Fox Glacier to see Steph for Xmas.

Erewhon to Haast (Jan 2008)

2008-01-19T23:28:00.000-08:00

Summary

1st Evening Erewhon Station to Rangitata Riverbed 7.5 kms

Day 1 Rangitata to North East Gorge 12 hrs 20 kms

Day 2 North East Gorge to Old Waterfall Hut Site 6.5 hrs 18 kms

Day 3 Old waterfall hut Site to Rankin's Hut 10 hrs 13 kms

Day 4 Rankin's Hut to Ailsa Stream 8.5 hrs 17 kms

Day 5 Ailsa Stream to Liebig Hut 7 hrs 8kms

Day 6 Liebig Hut to Camp below Caroline Hut 8 hrs 14 kms

Day 7 Camp below Caroline Hut to Copeland Shelter 10 hrs 9 kms

Day 8 Rest Day

Day 9 Copeland Shelter to Welcome Flat Hut 6.75 hrs 14.5 kms

Day 10 Welcome Flat Hut to Cassel Hut 8 hrs 27.5 kms

Day 11 Cassel Hut to Christmas Flat Hut 9 hrs 12 kms

Day 12 Christmas Flat Hut to Rubicon Biv Rock 10 hrs 12.5 kms

Day 13 Rubicon Biv Rock to Zora Creek 10 hrs 12.5 kms

Day 14 Zora Creek to Fraser Hut 8.5 hrs 19 kms

Day 15 Rest Day Day Walk

Day 16 Fraser Hut to Pleasant Flat/Road 11 hrs 30.5 kms

Diary

30 Dec 2007, Sunday

My son Chris took me down to the Rangitata from Nelson. Unfortunately, he took out his sump and a few other essential bits when we unexpectedly hit a ford opposite Mt Sunday. He stopped straightaway when he saw the oil light flick on. We walked up to Erewhon Station and rang the AA for a tow truck. Luckily he had only just joined the AA the week before! The tow truck arrived within a few minutes of us arriving back at the car. Can't complain about the service. Having seen Chris and the car off to Christchurch, I set off across the riverbed with a fully laden pack of 29kg and setup camp about 1km south of Mt Sunday. Weather warm and sunny.

31 Dec 2007, Monday (Day 1)

Up at 0530 and heading off at 0620. Weather overcast but warm. I'm keen to get the river crossing out of the way so skip breakfast until I get to Mount Black hut. I don't know what to expect and can't hear the river from this distance. The Internet had shown the river running low so I'm optimistic that I can cross, but still a bit hesitant. As a solo tramper, I can't use anyone else for support! I don't cross any significant channels prior to coming upon the main channel. I walk upstream a little way and come to a point where the river looks OK. The water is reasonably clear so I can see the bottom, which is always a bonus. The depth turns out to be about 150mm below crutch level, but the flow is quite fast. I make it across with out incident but it required concentration and patience. I am pleased to have that behind me. What would I do without my walking stick for support?

I have breakfast at the hut; leave my intentions and head away at 0815.

The going up the lower part of Alma Stream is straight forward enough as it turns out there is a fairly well worn track and some flagging tape. Reach "Camp Rock" at 1100 and after a quick snack, away again at 1115. I stop at the last water point and fill my bottles. (And add 1.5kg to the pack in the process!) At this point I am about to ascend into the cloud so I get out the GPS to get a direction and distance. I am 2.2kms and need to head due west. Visibility is only 100 -150m so I follow the compass. Some time later I recheck the GPS, still west and still 800m. I plod on under the burden of a heavy pack. After what seems like ages, and not wanting to climb a scree slope up the side of Mt Alma, I check the GPS again. This time west; 143m. I'm on track. I finally reach the Alma Col at 1530, that last 800m particularly slow. At the col, the view west is in brilliant sunshine, but in contrast, the view back down Alma stream is completely misty! I snap a few photos and move on at 1545.

The going down Trojan Stream is straight forward enough and I reach my camping spot in NE Gorge just below Chevalier Stream at 1820. At the bottom of Trojan, I sight 4 Thar in the main riverbed about 150m distant. I take some photos, and then sight a group of 10 further down stream. This group feed there way up the scree slope as I setup camp. As it has been a 12-hour day, I decide that tomorrow I will not cross the mountain range into the Macaulay as planned, but do the riverbed route.

1 Jan 2008 Tuesday (Day 2)

I didn't see the New Year in, having slept well after a long day yesterday. The first day of the New Year dawned fine and warm. Started off downstream on the true right, easy going at first but it got tougher where the river gorges. Was finally able to cross to the true left just before Two Thumb stream and it was easier going again on grassed terraces. In hindsight, stick to the TR until the river gorges, cross to the TL and stay on that side until you reach the Macaulay. Left camp at 0815 arrived Macaulay at 1245. Picked up the 4WD track and made quick time up to the old Waterfall Hut site, arriving at 1445. Setup camp nearby and spent the afternoon relaxing for a harder day tomorrow.

2 Jan 2008 Wednesday (Day 3)

Another warm fine day. Up at 0545, and on my way at 0655. The route up Waterfall Creek is easy and I reached the saddle between Pt's 2352 & 2320 at 1125. Snapped a few more photos and off again at 1140. Now the tricky bit! The route from the saddle into a hung basin was easy. However, I ended up cutting down through bluffs to the point where the North Branch fans out into the Godley. Luckily I didn't get bluffed but it got close in a couple of places. I should have regained the spur leading out to the front faces and dropped down there. Alternatively, a better saddle would have been the one between Pt's 2297 & 2228. This would have allowed me to drop easily into the North Branch riverbed, then follow the river out. The river narrows lower down, so it may not be a route when the river is high?

Anyway, I arrived at the riverbed at 1530, and at Rankin's Hut at 1700. The Godley was running milky and wasn't cross-able as a single channel, but by choosing a braided part about 1km upstream, easily managed a knee-deep crossing. Nice views of the Maud Glacier from Rankin's Hut.

3 Jan 2008, Thursday (Day 4)

Another fine warm day with quite a brisk wind blowing down the Godley and up Rankin Stream. This assisted me climb the lower reaches of Rankin. A very easy climb to the pass, with a steady gradient on tussock the whole way except for only 1/2 hour of stable scree at the end. There is a great camping spot with water 1/2 hour below the pass. Couldn't see the water in the moraine lake as I passed, but could see it from the other side of the Godley! Left Rankin's Hut 0720, arrived at pass at 1120. It was blowing a gale at the pass but in the opposite direction to that in the Godley. The south faces of Mt Hutton and the Huxley Glacier provided a brilliant vista from the pass. Relatively easy going down the Cass, arriving at Memorial hut at 1520. This is a private hut so I signed the visitor’s book, and headed of to setup camp in the bottom of Ailsa Stream.

1 Thar sited in Rankin Stream and a group of 9 in the Cass opposite Rutherford Stream.

The body is coping well at the moment, with only chaffing on the hips and lower back. Am very pleased with the new Macpac Cascade pack. I should have retired the old Hallmark years ago.

4 Jan 2008, Friday (Day 5)

Weather fine and warm again with clear sky. Left camp at 0730 and spied 1 Thar within 20min. This one didn't hang around like the others, probably due to easily accessible hunting pressure. Once again an easy steady climb up to Ailsa Pass, reaching it after 4 3/4 hours. And what a magnificent view from the pass. SSE looks through the Jollie Saddle out to Lake Pukaki in the distance. West across the Murchison Valley to the Malte Brun Range and of course the Main Divide and the dominant peak of Mt Sefton. But the one that filled the panorama was obviously Mt Cook. I couldn't at that moment think of a better place to be, especially given the fine warm windless weather. Helicopters were also making the most of the weather, with at least 1/2 dozen landing on the Liebig Range while I was at the saddle, not more than 1 km away. I had cell phone coverage, so was able to touch base with Pam and the kids.

A short and straightforward descent to Liebig Hut saw me arriving there within 2 hrs of leaving the pass. The afternoon was spent washing self and clothes and resting. I noted that manawahinewalk.com passed through here on 7/1/07.

5 Jan 2008, Saturday (Day 6)

WOW what a fantastic day. Once again weather perfect. Slept very well last night probably because of the mattress. Up at 0545, away at 0700. The Murchison River didn't pose a problem, being only knee deep at most, although it did involve 6 separate channels. It only took 2 hrs to get down to the Tasman moraine, as the Murchison riverbed is mostly composed of fine gravels, which made for fast walking.

Getting onto the Tasman Glacier was easy on the eastern side and includes a nice camping spot by a small clear lake. The glacier at this point is covered in rock and gravels and proved more stable than I had thought it would been. It took 3 1/4 hrs to cross the glacier and climb the moraine wall on the other side. DOC had told me to climb the moraine wall above Ball Shelter, but I actually climbed below it, and it wasn't a problem at all. I arrived at Ball Shelter at 1215. It was amazing how many spider webs I saw strung between the rocks on the glacier. The hardest part of the crossing was trying to walk around them all! Crossing the glacier reminded me of being in a small boat, rising and falling as I travelled through a swell of rock and ice.

I then proceeded to climb the Ball Pass track and arrived at a camping spot 30 Min's below Caroline Hut, at 1500. The camp is in a hollow, so should be reasonably sheltered from the worst of any winds. I am also opposite the Caroline face of Mt Cook, where I am entertained by the continual thunderous crashes of ice falling onto the Ball Glacier.

Could get 2 bars of signal on the cell phone but couldn't send a text. Picked up a weather report at Caroline Hut's emergency shelter. Predicting good tomorrow but Monday will be wet and windy. I will make for the Copeland Shelter tomorrow at the least. I made the mistake of leaving the tent unattended for several hours. On the way back to it I suddenly thought KEAS! To my surprise, they hadn't been near it!

6 Jan 2008, Sunday (Day 7)

It turned out to be a very calm night with a slightly cooler morning. Away tramping at 0700 and within a few minutes got to see a good avalanche on the Caroline Face. Arrived at Ball Pass at 0845. Had to use the crampons for the first time this trip, for the descent on the western side of the pass. I also dropped too low under Mt Rosa, so lost 1/2 hr climbing back up onto the track. Enjoyed going down the snowy gut beside the "playing fields", also requiring crampons. Arrived at the camping ground beside the Hooker at 1200. Overall I enjoyed the Ball Pass track and would highly recommend it. It is not well cairned, probably because the commercial guides remove them?

I climbed down the gut from the camping ground and crossed the Hooker, to arrive at the base of the Copeland track at 1310. I cut up the moraine wall midway between the two creeks onto the landing, cut left then climbed the 2ND half of the moraine wall to the only possible part of wall that could have got me onto the ledge above. When I got to this small gut I found the rope that made the only part of the climb that could have been difficult, easy. I was pleased to be above the moraine wall on the grass though. The going for the rest of the climb to the shelter was relatively straight forward and simply a matter of going up! It is well cairned where necessary. As I climbed, the wind kept increasing in intensity so any thoughts of actually getting over the pass to were soon dismissed. Clouds were also building up on the main ridge. I arrived at the shelter at 1700 any quite happy to stay there the night. When I got the weather forecast from the VHF radio sched, I thought that I would probably be here 2 nights at least.

I was expecting a hot dehydrating ascent during the afternoon, but the blustery wind actually kept me comfortable without actually sweating, except for the last 5 Min's below the shelter when I started to get cold. I went and collected snow to melt for water and on the way back to the shelter saw the water tank on the back of the building! There is no toilet at the Copeland shelter, so I made my first "poo sausage". Once again I had cell phone coverage so was able to contact home etc. As I have made good progress to date and given the long-term weather forecast, I made the decision to continue the tramp onto Pleasant Flat via the Karangarua and Landsborough. So I organised a food drop at the end of the Copeland Track and a pickup date at Pleasant Flat.

7 Jan 2008 Monday (Day 8)

Went to bed at 2100, rose today at 1000! Wet and windy outside in the morning, then the weather eased early afternoon. Was tempted to get on my way again but decided to stay put and make it a full rest day. (Also some of the side creeks on the western side before Douglas Rocks hut would probably be uncrossable?) Later a SW change with blustery winds and drizzle, though visibility not too bad. I feel somewhat guilty for staying put, and will be more so if the weather is bad tomorrow as well. However the forecast for tomorrow is for improvement. Read an old reader's digest inside out then started on Danielle Steele's "Wings".

8 Jan 2008 Tuesday (Day 9)

As the weather has improved, I'm up at 0530 and out the door at 0630. There is still a bit of wind around but the east side of the range is clear. The snow is firm so on with the crampons again. The short steep ascent to the ridge takes me about 30 Min's. I go to the spot that a guide on Ball Pass told me was the saddle at the northern end. Well when I look over the ridge I say "No way am I going down there". Out comes the GPS and it indicates about 30m south. I head back there and hey presto, looks a lot easier. After a few photos and one last text to Pam, I head of at 0730 into the mist down the western side. I trip over my crampons on the scree, and lose my walking stick in the process; it slides about 5m down the slope. As I pick myself up, I dislodge a netball-sized rock, which bounces down the slope and glances my stick. Luckily it doesn't snap it in 1/2. I have gotten rather fond of my piece of nei nei. Luckily the mist cleared from time to time so I could see where to head. Some blue sky showed above so I knew the day would turn out OK. Picked up the cairned track in due course on the true left and followed this well worn track down to Douglas Rocks Hut, arriving at 1100. A couple of Keas welcomed me into the valley with their noisy squawking.

It was nice to be back on the west coast. What a contrast to the east; hot and dry vs. cool and damp, brown and stunted vs. green and lush, rocks dry and grippy vs. wet and slippery. Further down the valley it became very warm and humid. The side creeks had gone down, but they would not have been cross able yesterday. I was drenched when I reached Douglas Rock, not from rain but from the wet undergrowth. I was very pleased to rid myself of the poo sausages into the loo as well! After a 10 min stop, I head off and arrive at welcome Flat at 1315. I am dry by this time, all clouds have gone with a pleasant warm breeze blowing. It’s not long before I'm soaking in the hot pools, but they're very hot so I don't linger. I pay the $15 hut fee with the credit card. By evening, a lot of trampers have turned up so the hut is quite full. There is a group here from the Wellington Tramping and Mountaineering Club. From the smell outside the window, it's clear that the septic tank isn't coping! Maybe my poo sausage wasn't so bad after all!

9 Jan 2008 Wednesday (Day 10)

Up at 0545, soaked in the pools till 0600 and up and away at 0700. It takes 2 3/4 hrs to reach the Karangarua and arrive at SH6 at 1100. I walked out with a couple of guys from the WTMC and they offered to give me a ride into Fox Glacier if my food drop hasn't arrived. I have a quick look for it and can't see it so I take up their offer. Well then I see my daughter Stephanie at Fox, the first thing she said to me is "What are you doing here, I dropped your food off 2 days ago!" She was doing a split shift that day so she was having a long lunch hour. She took me back down to the Copeland after I managed to squeeze in a quick beer. We then had to play a game called "Find the food box". It was there all right.

After gorging myself on tinned food. and restocking my pack, I head off up the south side of the Karangarua. It takes me 4 1/4 hrs to reach Cassel Hut. The track in is getting overgrown, but it is well marked. There are 2 people in the hut, both trampers and 1 turns out to be Aaron Whitehead who did his own traverse last summer. He gave me some good route information. I will see these guys in a couple of day’s time as they will head into the Douglas (Twain) then onto the Karangarua via Douglas Pass. I feast some more on hut food and the other guy's leftovers, which include fresh veges! Yum.

10 Jan 2008 Thursday (Day 11)

A fine day again. Away from Cassel Hut at 0720. It takes me 5 1/2 hrs to get to the old Lame Duck site. It is a beautiful spot by the river so I stop for a 1 hr lunch break. The track to here is well marked but getting overgrown. It climbs high above the gorge, through bluffs, then drops back to the main river. This country is made up of solid rock, and all side creeks have eaten channels into the rock. There are no boulders! The next stage to Christmas Flat Hut is more scrubby and harder, taking another 3 1/2 hrs for 3 1/2 kms. Track is mostly well marked, but in need of a damn good prune. Christmas Flat is a lovely spot right in the head of the valley with views to the Karangarua Saddle and Mt Howit and has a backdrop of rugged bluffy mountains. I spooked a Thar at less than 4m about 45 mins above Lame Duck, followed a few minutes later by a Chamois.

Christmas Flat Hut is warm and sunny and well stocked with food. (Thanks hunters) I have another feast comprising of corned beef, baked beans and sausages, and creamed rice. And to finish off, a generous nip of 12 year old scotch whisky.

11 Jan 2008 Friday (Day 12)

Another warm, calm clear day. Rose at 0550 and left hut at 0710. I walked up the main creek to where it forks below Mt Howit, then cut straight up the tussock face toward Howit. This avoided bush bashing except where I had to climb around 3 large rocks. Mist rolled in after 3 1/2 hrs, but still managed to get some photos and direction when it rolled back briefly. Arrived on the top of Howit after 4 1/2 hrs. At one stage I peered over the ridge into the Landsborough. What a shock, almost straight down to the riverbed. made worse by the spooky misty conditions. Arrived on top of Gladiator after 6 hrs. I couldn't see into the lower Douglas but I could hear the thunderous crashing of ice off the Douglas Glacier presumably. A straightforward route into the Landsborough via Howit and Gladiator, but a bit of a grunt to climb out of the Karangarua. Some neat looking crevasses on Maori Glacier. Spooked a Thar heading down to Douglas saddle and met up with the Cassel Hut trampers going the opposite way. Arrived in the valley floor under the Karangarua saddle after 8 hrs and reached Rubicon Biv rock just under 2 hrs later. (Time all up today, just under 10 hrs) The biv rock is on a sunny terrace on the TL just before Rubicon Torrent. It's dry from above but I suspect water flows across the floor in wet weather. Water is only 4 mins away to the north.

12 Jan 2008 Saturday (Day 13)

Day started cloudy and mild with a slight northerly breeze. It has been a long slow trudge down to Zora. Left biv at 0725, arrived at campsite below Zora at 1725. 10 hrs of boulder hopping and bush bashing to get around large boulders and slips etc. I have stuck to the TL, which is not the easiest route, but it does ensure that I am on the correct side of the river for getting out to the road. The TR is recommended as the easier (quicker) route in the upper section, but does require crossing to the TL at least 2 hrs below Zora. Light drizzle set in, then eased, then set in again. Walking clothes all wet, but I now dry and warm in the tent. My knees, quads and feet are feeling a bit sore tonight. The river drops about 600m over the 12.5 odd kms between Rubicon and Zora. The river is particularly picturesque around The Sentinel.

Only 2 days to the road now, so if it's wet in the morning, I might just sleep in! No animals sighted but plenty of sign in the river sand and bush. Lovely beech forest in the Landsborough, and no matagouri!

13 Jan 2008 Sunday (Day 14)

I couldn't get to sleep that quickly last night due to a throbbing pain in my little toe. I have got an infection under the toenail. (It lifted on the first day of my tramp). Otherwise the ground was soft and comfortable. Slept in til 0700, donned wet clothes and away at 0825. The first 2 hrs same rugged terrain as yesterday, then picked up beeched terraces which made it easier going to McKerrow. At McKerrow, I picked up a marked cut track used for a stoat trap line and covered the next 4 km in an hour. The track continued all the way to Fraser Hut. At Toetoe Flat, I pass a tent city with electricity that presumably belongs to one of the rafting companies. I arrive at Fraser Hut at 1700. (7 1/2 hrs walking time) The day has been light drizzle on and off all day. Plenty of fresh deer sign about, though nothing seen. Fraser hut is nothing flash, but it’s dry and has an open fireplace. (and plenty of dry wood)

I'm clean again and the clothes are drying. I treat my infected toe with iodine. As I am not due out til Thursday, I will have a rest day tomorrow and take a look at the Brodrick Pass track without a pack on!

14 Jan 2008 Monday (Day 15)

Weather overcast and drizzly. When up and flagged some of the Brodrick track. Steady rain set in after I got back at 1400. Spent the rest of the day reading. The rain eased in the evening, but the river has come up quite a bit. I note that a lot of visitors to Fraser Hut do a loop from Ohau via Brodrick and Elcho Passes.

15 Jan 2008 Tuesday (Day 16)

No rain in the night and the river has dropped considerably. I'm up at 0530 and away at 0700 after replenishing the wood supply. I followed the rivers edge for the first hour, before picking up the trappers track again and following it down to Harper's Flat. It took 1/2 hr to climb onto the top of Harper's Bluff, arriving there after 5 1/2 hrs since setting out. The day is sunny and breezy, so the bush has dried out and the raincoat comes off. I hear cicadas for the first time this season as I make my way down from the bluff. They must be enjoying the sun too. Stopped for lunch after 6 1/4 hrs at the creek below Harper's Flat. I almost fall to sleep in the warm sun. However I must carry on as I have a long way to walk, so away at 1415. By 1545 I'm on top of Strutt Bluff. There's a sign there that says "Track closed. Sorry for the inconvenience". Well I thought that the track was one of the better ones! By 1630 I arrive at the end of the 4WD track below Strutt Bluff. I remove gaiters, leggings and shake all the twigs and leaves out of my clothes before heading of again at 1645. I finally arrive at Pleasant Flat at 1915, tired but glad to be here after 11 walking hrs and 15 days of walking. I setup camp and head off to the river for a cold-water wash.

16 Jan 2008 Wednesday (Day 17)

Fine and sunny. Up at 0800, the clothesline is put up and the clothes are airing and drying. And finally the sandflies have found me. The road is busy and every second car seems to stop here and photograph Mt Hooker at the head of the Clarke. It's also a popular camping spot. In the evening I go for a stroll up the road to where the Burke joins the Haast. That will probably be my starting point next year.

17 Jan 2008 Thursday (Day 18)

It started to rain in the night and has rained since. It's got very boring waiting, but Stephanie finally arrives on cue just after noon. We drive back to Fox Glacier in the pouring rain and on Friday I catch the Atomic shuttle back to Nelson.